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Gleaming the Cube 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 614
Submitted By: AOSR on Jul 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Face and lieback with 7 bolts.


20 feet right of First Blood


#3 friend, draws

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From: Wherever we park!
Jul 7, 2010

first bolt is ~25 high and felt like 11 moves to get to it. the book mentioned a number 3 friend--if it was to make that section safe i did not see a place for it... i would recommend clipping the first bolt on your rap in. great moves on the face.
By JoMo
From: Casper, WY
Jun 1, 2014

What a great route, might go at 11d. As far as getting to the first bolt, there is a spot under the miniroof (down and climber's right of the first bolt about 3' or 4') where you can place either a #3, #1 or both. Obviously use a shoulder length sling for these placements. Also, a .75 Camalot is nice for up top were the bolts are fairly well-spaced.
By Drew Thayer
From: Laramie, WY
Sep 8, 2014

Amazing route! Really fun and unique movement.

With JoMo's beta, #3 and #1 camalots extended under mini-roof give confidence for making the fairly stiff moves to the first bolt. .75 camalot nice for upper section but it's 5.10 up there.

F.A. Steve Petro?

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