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The Storm Boulders
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Glass Blower (aka Pygmies & Cornrolls) 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 761
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Feb 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Although wet most of the time, when dry, this crack traverse/dyno problem is great. Sit start on a jug in the crack just right of the tree. Follow the overhanging crack to the right with good feet. Just past the tree, slot your L hand into a vertical crack, grab a bad crimp on the R face, and dyno R hand to the lip (crux). Once you match the lip, you can work out a thrilling topout.

keith climbing Glass Blower 2013


Location 

This problem is just right of Ride the Lightning & Downward Spiral, behind the problem Zap.

Protection 

Pads & Spotters


Comments on Glass Blower (aka Pygmies & Cornrolls) Add Comment
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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 23, 2013
rating: V7 7A+

How is this thing supposed to top out? It felt most natural to traverse along the upper lip right until reaching the faint arete feature and then follow that upwards. Or is there some wizard beta that allows one to go straight up after gaining the lip?
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Oct 24, 2013

There used to be a tree that you had to squeeze past when you traversed the crack, kind of like on Squeeze Play with more room, and then you had to control the swing through the crux or you'd hit the tree with your back. Needless to say, the tree prevented the direct topout, so traversing right a bit was the best option.
By Alec Woolley
From: Nottingham, NH
Oct 26, 2013
rating: V7 7A+

This route climbs great! It has such fun movement in it, especially the rose move you can do towards the beginning. For the top I traverse the slopers right to the corner then swing a heel to a hold around the corner and top out that way. Its a shame this climb is almost always wet.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 9, 2013
rating: V7 7A+

It should be noted that you can also do the move to the lip statically (avoiding the described dyno) by putting a right heel on and making a deadpoint to a good sloper right of the obvious point. Then follow the lip up and right.

If the starting holds are wet (they very frequently are), just start a couple of moves in. The opening sequence of v2-ish moves really adds nothing to the overall difficulty. The crux is definitely sticking the lip, matching, and making a few tenuous moves rightward until reaching better holds.

This climb is quite good, but the frequent seeping of the starting holds takes it down a star. In my opinion, it's just hard for a climb to be 'classic' when it seeps 60% of the year. Same goes for 'Ride The Lightning' in my book!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 12, 2013

Keith warming up then sending Glass Blower!

By Karthik Sonty
Feb 1, 2014
rating: V6- 7A

Not to spray too much, but if you're looking to do it statically, there's also an awesome pinch on the arete leading to the lip. Locking off on that and crossing to the lip made the big move pretty simple.
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Feb 3, 2014

Just a note - The static method wasn't possible until the tree disappeared a few years ago.