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Mule Hollow Wall
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Glasnost 
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High on Crack 
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Sands of Time, The 

Glasnost 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bret Ruckman, Fred Thalmann, 1990
Page Views: 426
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on May 28, 2009
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Me on Glasnost. Great route!

Description 

Great, long pitch that goes up the center of the Sea of Glass wall. Start in a seam that trends slightly left. It opens up in places and you can get some good gear in from time to time. End at a three-bolt belay located just left of a large bush.

Note: I think the Ruckmans goofed in their guide. On the photo topo they've got it right. But I think the description is off. The written description for "Sea of Glass" (5.9+) is actually the description of the route Glasnost. And from what I saw of the cliff, Sea of Glass is 25 feet left of Glasnost and not the other way around.


Location 

In the middle of the wall. It's the obvious left-leaning seam-that-turns-into-a-crack that is to the right of the glassiest part of the wall.


Protection 

Micro nuts, a set of regular nuts, micro cams, regular cams to number 3 Camalot.



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By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
May 28, 2009

This thing is barely R-rated, in my opinion. Yeah there are a couple long runouts but the gear you do have is pretty bomber. This is a really cool route. I don't think it gets done very often... There were all sorts of cobwebs on the holds. I gave it three stars because I love moderate runout routes. Your mileage my vary. The 5.9+ to the left looks rad. Next time.

And thanks for whoever it was (I'm guessing James) that put in the bomber anchor.

By ddriver
From: SLC
Jun 20, 2011

Don't have the Ruckman guide in front of me, but I did at the route. I think they have it right both on the description and the topo.

I also like moderate runouts but this one didn't really do it for me, though with some cleaning it has potential. I'm rating it 5.7 1-star because I felt like I was just dancing aroung trying to find good rock above so-so gear. Pulled one baseball size hold off about 20' up with only 2 rp's in, so that may have colored my perception.

Bring a wire brush for this one.

By zoso
Nov 8, 2012

Didn't find it that dirty. Fun route. Although I do think it was more like 5.8+. And it is indeed called Sea of Glass.