Gladiator 5.12a
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| Type: | Trad, 130 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | John Steiger, Brad Smith, Nov. 1986 |
| Submitted By: | John Steiger on Aug 23, 2011 |
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Description Yeah, yeah, this route has an admittedly overly-dramatic name, but we wanted something classic to memorialize what we thought was a great route. Ironically, Gladiator apparently has faded into obscurity, perhaps another victim of Tucson’s late-80s sport climbing surge, which by all accounts continues today. (EFR in Squeezing II gives it no stars; . . . dude, really?) We worked this from the ground up, consistent with the ethic just about to be swept aside, figuring the sequence out by taking repeated falls and lowering to a rest. I slightly remember there being a little suspect rock low on the route, but it has cool position, and from what I can recollect, the climbing is not so much burly as tricky and sequential, with height being an advantage.
Start up Histo, but break left at the top of the right-leaning, right-facing corner, up a crack toward a face protected by a bolt and pin.
Location Branches off left from Histoplasmosis.
Protection Standard Tucson trad rack.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 24, 2011
| Hey John, before you "Dude Really" me again I have been meaning to climb that route for some time and now that you have duded me I will get on it as soon as I am back from my elk hunt. As far as the lack of any stars that may be because I have never talked to anyone who ever climbed it or might have missed it when I was ttttypping. Thanks for the motivational comment. |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 24, 2011
| you guys kill me. :)
john- thanks for reviving some of the old classics. can't wait to get on some of them! |
By 1Eric Rhicard
6 days ago
| Attempted this route today. Glad I had a long runner to use on a blocky ledge for pro. I used an RP and a gray mastercam to keep it from being pulled off if I happened to fall trying to get to the bolt about 12 feet above the ledge. I didn't fall but I could not get past the bolt without down-climbing and traversing left to the pin. From there I could not get past it. Hmmm Will have to work on this problem. |
By 1Eric Rhicard
6 days ago
| Nice you did it ground up John. That crux is burly and I didn't figure out the sequence. I was not sure where to move left into the corner. I went at the first chance but I ended up back to the right using holds on Histo where it moves a little left of the main weakness. |
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