This route follows a blunt arete on the NE face of the Citadel. It is a fun and exposed face route, with superb views up Rabbit Ear canyon. The solitude alone makes it a worthy destination, not to mention the solid and clean granite.
To reach this route, stay in Rabbit Ear canyon until you can clearly see the NE face of the Citadel. The route is fairly easy to identify from below by looking for a clean arete that terminates below a steep head-wall. To reach the base of the climb look for a trail marked with cairns that starts right after the canyon turns right. The area around the base of the cliff is relatively clear.
6 3/8" (new) bolts protect the route. A large cam can be placed near the start to eliminate the initial 30' run-out (on easy terrain). A mid-size cam/wire is useful after the last bolt to reduce the 30' run-out to the anchors. The anchor is below a steep head-wall/roof and around the corner to the left and can't be seen until you get all the way to the top. The descent is down a gully directly below the anchors and is about 100'. Two ropes are recommended but it is possible to rappel a full rope length and then scramble down (easy 5th) the last 20'.
|By Forrest Wilcox|
From: Las Cruces, NM
Nov 17, 2012
Very fun route. With all the routes that are next to it, it was almost like craging the Organs.