Glacier Peak Rock Climbing
Glacier Peak from Dome Peak. Early July 2007.
Glacier Peak is Washington State's fourth highest summit and most remote of the state's major volcanoes. Although having over a dozen glaciers, this peak is much less glaciated than Rainier, Adams and Baker, due to its eastern location.
This mountain lies in the Glacier Peak Wilderness. There are no roads, concessions or annoying tourists. The Native American name is Dakobed.
Darcy Bard, A. H. Dubor, Thomas Gerdine and San Strom first ascended this peak in June 1897.
There aren't any crowds on this mountain. Plan for three to four days for the approach and ascent.
White Chuck Road was the shortest and most popular approach, but floods in 2003 wiped it out and may still be closed.
Now the best way is to take the North Fork Sauk Trail to the PCT at White Pass, then into White Chuck Basin, which leads to the South Ridge.
Climbing Season For the North Cascades area.
Weather station 14.1 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Glacier Peak
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Glacier Peak:
Featured Route For Glacier Peak
: Northwest Region
: ... : Glacier Peak
This is a very committing route in that it is a very long approach with lots of up and down that would be a major pain to retreat on. Total mileage (up Frostbite, down Cool Glacier) is slightly over 40 miles. Be prepared to finish this route if you start it, carrying up and over. Be comfortable on steep snow before getting on this route. Based on the occasional washout of bridges/roads the best approach may vary year to year. Most parties will want to descend an easier route, with the Gerdine R...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
Glacier Peak from White Chuck Glacier area.
Glacier peak from Mt.Moud