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DescriptionThe west slope of Long's Peak drops 3000 feet into a rugged basin at the head of Glacier Gorge known as the Black Lake Cirque. Some of the most impressive walls and spires in Rocky Mountain National Park are found here towering above fields of wild flowers, ice-scoured slabs and jewel-like lakes comprising an alpine paradise of exceptional beauty (except for the mosquitoes). The rim of Glacier Gorge is formed by Half Mountain, Storm Peak and Long's Peak on the east; Keyboard of the Winds, Pagoda Mountain and Chief's Head Peak on the south; and by McHenry's Peak, Powell Peak and Thatchtop Mountain on the west. Spearhead and Arrowhead are satellite or island peaks within the rim of the gorge. Getting ThereBegin from the Glacier Gorge Bus Stop (Trailhead) and follow the Glacier Gorge Trail to Black Lake. A useful shortcut branches right from the main trail just after the 4th stream crossing (about .55 mile) and regains the main trail just east of the Loch Vale Junction. As soon as you cross the log bridge over Icy Brook, you are in Glacier Gorge. This great trail continues to Mills Lake, Jewel Lake and eventually to Black Lake. From Black Lake the trail climbs along a beautiful cascade SE into the basin above Black Lake. From here, cairns indicate the line of least resistance into the upper cirque. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Glacier Gorge:
NE Ridge or Arrowhead Arete Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade II McHenry's Peak
North Ridge 5.6 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade II Spearhead
North Buttress 5.7 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade III Pagoda Mountain
Syke's Sickle 5.9+ Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III Spearhead
Arrowplane 5.11a Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Arrowhead
Birds of Fire 5.11a R Trad, Sport, Alpine, Grade IV Chiefshead Northwest Face
Obviously Four Believers 5.11a Trad, Alpine, Grade IV Spearhead
Cowboys and Indians 5.11c Trad, Alpine, Grade IV Chiefshead Northeast Face
Spear Me the Details 5.11d Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III Spearhead
All Two Obvious 5.11d R Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 800 feet Spearhead
Featured Route For Glacier Gorge
Airhead 5.11d CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Arrowhead
It's hard to believe that Airhead, which climbs the plumb line dihedral and crack system up the center of Arrowhead's south face, isn't an RMNP mega-classic. Not only is the line itself the most obvious directissima on the wall, but the climbing is really good and the crux pitch is one of the gems of the Park. After approaching via any of the methods listed for Arrowhead, begin climbing from the highest of a series of ledges below the obvious, hanging, left-facing dihedral. This feature is se...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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