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Glacier Gorge

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A Walk in The Park 
Chiefshead Northeast Face 
Chiefshead Northwest Face 
Half Mountain 
McHenry's Peak 
Pagoda Mountain 
Shelf Cirque 

Glacier Gorge Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.2655, -105.64137 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Oct 19, 2009
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Hiking in to Glacier Gorge with Spearhead and Chie...


The west slope of Long's Peak drops 3000 feet into a rugged basin at the head of Glacier Gorge known as the Black Lake Cirque. Some of the most impressive walls and spires in Rocky Mountain National Park are found here towering above fields of wild flowers, ice-scoured slabs and jewel-like lakes comprising an alpine paradise of exceptional beauty (except for the mosquitoes). The rim of Glacier Gorge is formed by Half Mountain, Storm Peak and Long's Peak on the east; Keyboard of the Winds, Pagoda Mountain and Chief's Head Peak on the south; and by McHenry's Peak, Powell Peak and Thatchtop Mountain on the west. Spearhead and Arrowhead are satellite or island peaks within the rim of the gorge.

Getting There 

Begin from the Glacier Gorge Bus Stop (Trailhead) and follow the Glacier Gorge Trail to Black Lake. A useful shortcut branches right from the main trail just after the 4th stream crossing (about .55 mile) and regains the main trail just east of the Loch Vale Junction. As soon as you cross the log bridge over Icy Brook, you are in Glacier Gorge. This great trail continues to Mills Lake, Jewel Lake and eventually to Black Lake. From Black Lake the trail climbs along a beautiful cascade SE into the basin above Black Lake. From here, cairns indicate the line of least resistance into the upper cirque.

There is also a steep path that leads to Shelf Lake and Solitude Lake. This trail (never built) breaks right from the Glacier Gorge Trail after about 4 miles in some old avalanche debris. Cross Glacier Creek on large flat boulders and the find the start to the trail in the trees. This is less than obvious.

Climbing Season

Weather station 7.3 miles from here

62 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Glacier Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Glacier Gorge:
NE Ridge or Arrowhead Arete        Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500'   McHenry's Peak
Shelf Cirque Traverse   Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c     Trad, Alpine, 19475'   Shelf Cirque
A Walk In The Park   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, Alpine, 15'   A Walk in The Park
North Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches   Spearhead
Crescent Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500'   Pagoda Mountain
North Buttress   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1500'   Pagoda Mountain
West Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches   Pagoda Mountain
Glacier Gorge Traverse   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 5000'   Arrowhead
East Prow   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   Spearhead
Rain Dance   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   Arrowhead
Syke's Sickle   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900'   Spearhead
The Barb   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches   Spearhead
Arrowplane   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'   Arrowhead
Birds of Fire   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1200'   Chiefshead Northwest Face
The Godfather   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800'   Arrowhead
Cowboys and Indians   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Alpine, Grade IV   Chiefshead Northeast Face
All Two Obvious   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 800'   Spearhead
Airhead   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600'   Arrowhead
Spear Me the Details   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 700'   Spearhead
Ithaca   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'   Arrowhead
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Glacier Gorge

Featured Route For Glacier Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth Finkelstein climbing some sweet stone on Spea...

Spear Me the Details 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Spearhead
This is a magical mystery tour. It has lots of variety including steep face climbing similar to the domes of Tuolumne Meadows. There may be no better face climbing in the Park.The route starts on Middle Earth, which can be accessed by various means.P1. The first pitch of the route proper begins to the right of the Eye of Mordor, a huge, seriously sinister, vertical gouge left of center on Spearhead's east face.The first pitch is easy, taking you to a big ledge. The next pitch climbs straight up...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Glacier Gorge
Photos of Glacier Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Long's, Pagoda, and Chiefshead from Arrowhead.
Long's, Pagoda, and Chiefshead from Arrowhead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Big stars under big walls in Glacier Gorge. Septem...
Big stars under big walls in Glacier Gorge. Septem...
Rock Climbing Photo: McHenry's and Arrowhead as seen from Birds of Fire...
McHenry's and Arrowhead as seen from Birds of Fire...
Rock Climbing Photo: Panorama of Glacier Gorge with the South End of th...
Panorama of Glacier Gorge with the South End of th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down towards Black Lake.  Lots of snow for...
Looking down towards Black Lake. Lots of snow for...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lots of rock to choose from in the Gorge.
Lots of rock to choose from in the Gorge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Glacier Gorge at night.
Glacier Gorge at night.

Comments on Glacier Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Russell Errett
May 31, 2012
An update to Clayton Laramie's post: NPS have only cleared about 100 yards of the 0.5 mile or so, and I would estimate it will take months to get a path cleared through the tree hellscape. It took my buddy and every bit of an hour to negotiate our way through going to spearhead and +2 hrs on the way back on Tuesday (5/29). It is a maze and is difficult to follow any path or lack thereof and nearly impossible by headlamp. We looked at the area from up on the ridge above Black Lake, and it looks like a 0.5 mile crop circle. Craziest thing I have ever seen. Plan accordingly and bring your chainsaw....
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 14, 2012
Per the RMNP Backcountry Office, they finished chainsawing a trail through the deadfall on Glacier Gorge Trail two days ago. Looks like GG is open again!

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