Glacier Gorge is a six-mile-long gorge the starts near Bear Lake and heads down to the back side of Long's Peak. It's surrounded by some of the most spectacular scenery, cleanest rock and the longest ice routes in the park. Glacier Gorge hosts a bevy of top-notch, serious, ice climbs. The routes are strewn across the northeast facing slopes of Thatchtop, the North side of Arrowhead and in the cirque surrounding Black Lake. The area is scenic and fairly remote although you are likely to run into another party on the popular routes on weekends. All of these routes should be viewed as mountaineering routes involving technical pure water ice pitches combined with long, approaches and technical descents including steep snow, loose rock, and high altitude. Protection can be scarce and/or difficult to find, and changing conditions can make a moderate full-day climb into a strenuous, post-holing, struggle. With the abbreviated winter daylight hours, be sure to start this route early, bring a headlamp and be prepared to use it. The approaches to these climbs take 2-3 hrs under good conditions and considerably longer in deep snow etc. I have made the approach from the parking lot to the base of All Mixed Up in less than 1 hour; and I have had it take 2 hours just to get the few hundred yards from Mill's Lake to the base of the route! The Black Lake cirque is a far enough trudge that most consider this a winter camping type destination.
From Estes Park, take US 36 to the Beaver Meadows Entrance Station. A quarter of a mile past the station, Turn left onto Bear Lake Rd, in the direction of Bear Lake. Follow this road approx. 8.5 miles to the well-marked Glacier Gorge Trailhead parking area (approx. ½ mile before you reach Bear Lake). Park there and hike the Glacier Gorge Trail to Mills Lake, approx 3 miles. Snowshoes are a good idea in fresh snow, but the trail is usually well-packed within a matter of days. (Here's a great shortcut that will save you 30 minutes: Head right immediately after you cross the second overbuilt bridge-the ones with the handrails. Follow the drainage up until you intersect the GG trail about 100 yards from the GG/Loch junction. Summer climber's note: This is not the summer shortcut which parallels the drainage on the left. The winter route follows the creek bed and is quite skiiable.) Right before you get to Mills Lake you'll have to make a decision: left takes you into Glacier Gorge, Thachtop and the climbs at Black Lake; right takes you to the Loch.
19 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Glacier Gorge:
Black Lake Slabs WI2-3 Trad, Ice, Alpine
Yellow Tears WI5 Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Northwest Ledges Mod. Snow PG13 Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1500'
The Middle Finger of Dr. Wazz WI5 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch
Snow Bench (McHenry's Peak) M3 Steep Snow Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000'
All Mixed Up WI4 R Trad, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 550'
Main Squeeze M4-5 Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 6 pitches
Big Mac Couloir WI4- M4- Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 11 pitches, 1200'
Black Lake - West Gully WI4 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches
Stoneman WI4+ PG13 Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150'
Deborah M3-4 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000'
The Trough Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine, 2200'
The Hourglass Couloir M4 Mod. Snow Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1200'
Right Gully WI4 M4 A1 Mod. Snow Trad, Aid, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000'
McHenry's Notch Couloir 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c AI2 Mod. Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1000'
Aquavelva - aka Headdress - aka Chickens on Ice? 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a WI5 M5 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
Featured Route For Glacier Gorge
Deborah M3-4 Mod. Snow CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Glacier Gorge
This is the obvious couloir splitting the south face of Arrowhead. It is similar to Dreamweaver on Mt. Meeker in its legnth and difficulty.Either climb the West Gully out of Black Lake, or hike up and around to the South Face of Arrowhead and head straight for the base of the couloir. There could be some ice in spring with proper conditions. Expect mostly snow climbing with 4-5 mixed steps/constrictions, ranging from M2-4. This is about 5 pitches with a 60 meter rop...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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