Giucco Piano  5.8 PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  July 2012 New Route:  Yes Season:  April - November Submitted By:  Jay Harrison on Jul 27, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Gauging the frictional coefficient during the FA.

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Description 

Good friction training.
Climb slab, passing a bolt, to low overhang. Climb through this at a short vertical crack, move up onto a steep slab and climb it, passing 2 bolts along the way, to a final flap and 1 more bolt before reaching a small oak tree on a ledge under the big white pine tree.

Location 

Start between 2 mossy strips on the slab, about 40' from the left end of the cliff.

Protection 

The short vertical crack takes medium cams, stoppers, tricams, whatever; the rest of the route depends on bolts for gear.