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Gitmo Love Machine 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Shane Polizzano, Dave Sowerby, Tymun Abbott 6/1/2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 443
Submitted By: orclimber on Jun 4, 2009
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Description 

Burl through juggy, overhanging roof moves off ground and directly into the crux sequence on thin holds. Continue through delicate face climbing into the second crux roof. Runout climbing on easier holds, one final roof sequence at 70ft and moderate face climbing to anchor.


Location 

Starts 35ft left of hikers trail at base of Beacon on NW corner, right of a large fir tree near the base, under a small roof. 10ft left of Fireballs.


Protection 

Gear to 2", TCUs, bolts.



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