On the far left side of Bell Buttress is the route "Pigs in Space", Gish starts just left of Pigs in Space and follow a line of bolts up a steep wall on good holds. The route is over a 100 feet-long so be careful when lowering. Bring a few small to medium aliens that can be place past the eight bolt. The route need a little more cleaning as of 7/17/02, but should clean up nicely with a few more ascents. Just left of Pig in Space and were the wall meet Boulder Creek is a two-bolt anchor 15 feet off the ground. Climb up to the anchor and belay from here. Angle left past the anchor and climb up on good holds to a ledge just past the sixth bolt. The bolts continue straight up into a shallow corner past a small overhang to a two bolt anchor. Be careful when lowering!!!
Ten bolts, plus a few small Aliens is the protection that will get you to a two-bolts anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Aquarium Wall, lower routes.
|By Brad Bond|
Jul 23, 2002
This is a really fun route. The bolts were all right where I wanted them and the climbing is sustained and awesome. Two things: It's actually on the Aquarian Wall. The two bolt belay 15 ft. off the ground has a link on only one bolt (as of 7/23/02) so maybe bring one for the other bolt if you're headed that way.
|By Ray Snead|
Jul 27, 2002
Lillian or Smashing Pumpkins?
This is a good route, tastefully bolted and always interesting. The grade is fair enough, but deep shade and crashing creek make the experience somewhat atmospheric. Both green and yellow Aliens fit the horizontal perfectly between bolts #8 and #9.
Unfortunately, there is a big and really scary flake near the eighth bolt - you can easily recognize it by all the chalk. It is possible to avoid it on the left, but this baby really should be trundled (carefully, from above) before it kills someone.
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 30, 2002
Did this route on 7/19/02.We belayed the traverse to the start anchor and protected the one dicey move with a small Alien. I found the climb to be burly for Boulder Canyon 10a; it felt more like 10b at the crux by the 9th bolt. The climbing is varied and interesting; definitely a worthy route. I belayed my partner from a good ledge at the top anchor instead of lowering. On rappel, we had 2 feet of rope left (with a 60-meter rope) when we hit the start anchor. A short rap from here gets you back to the ground. Be careful to keep the rope out of the creek!
|By Anonymous Coward|
Sep 4, 2002
This route probably has hangers stamped with "AH".
|By Brian Hansen|
From: West of Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2003
Fun route in a nice setting. Two stars for sure. Didn't need any supplemental pro; the bolts seemed well placed and not too far apart. It's relatively easy to avoid the obvious loose flake near the eighth bolt. The crux of the climb may be getting your shoes on in the sloping, wet ferns just above the creek. Be careful not to let your pack roll in.
|By Dan Mottinger|
Apr 21, 2006
A 70 m rope lets you rap from the top anchor to the ground--just barely though (needed the 4-5 feet of rope stretch to reach or swing right a litte)
|By kyle lefkoff|
Aug 5, 2013
Update as of 8.4.13 - climbed this route for the first time and it's still excellent. Clean, well-protected 10a climbing in an atmospheric setting. I was glad to get the grey Camalot after the eighth bolt and belayed from the good anchors twenty feet off the deck. A 70m rope is recommended and gives plenty of slack in whichever configuration you climb it.