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Girls and Buoys 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Kimi Harrison, Leslie Appling
Page Views: 1,247
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Feb 7, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: At the anchors on Girls and Buoys, Guise and Gals ...

Description 

From Guise and Gals, continue under the boulder and around the corner to find the start of Girls and Buoys. Good climb for a 5.5. Start in the left most of three corners at ground level and climb about 40 feet to a ledge. Step left into the first corner and continue to the anchors. The crux is stepping into the upper corner the climbing is easy, but the pro is a little thin in spots, especially as you move higher. Fun, thoughtful route. (There is a 5.4 variation that climbs the second corner to the left from the ledge. It can also be reached by starting on Guise and Gals and traversing to the right.)


Protection 

Protection: Cams up to #3 Camalot for the bottom, small wires towards the top.



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By CalebSimpson
Apr 4, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Felt more like 5.6 as did the route to the left.
I also recommend a #4 and a #.75 for the traverse left.
The left crack protects better than the right (after the traverse), but the right side looked easier. Perhaps that is why it felt more like 5.6. I was able to place a yellow and red (I think) TCU on that side.

Also, be careful moving to the anchors, the wall is VERY slick. I would clip in before moving onto the face the anchors are on. There is also currently (April 2007) a mangled mess of tattered webbing with one rap ring up on the anchors.

By Alex Rogers
From: Sydney, Australia
Oct 4, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

I find grades difficult at this level, didn't feel any different to Guise & Gals next door in terms of difficulty, but was a little trickier to protect at the top. Nice climb as well, with hummingbirds attracted to the flowers growing in an adjacent crack. The tat at the top had been cleaned up and some decent slings 'n rings left in situ.

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Apr 24, 2012

Saw an epic on this one this weekend. Not a good lead for inexperienced climbers. Even with long slings, protecting before the traverse will result in nightmare rope drag. Skipping gear before the traverse allows the rope to run over the face as opposed to around the corner and greatly reduces drag. Slick moves near the top tend to paralyze new leaders. Anchor has been upgraded and is fine.

By Szu-Ping Lee
Jan 27, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a PG13

Feels harder than the 5.5 rating.
The first move on to the route is fun but not protected then is fine up to the ledge. After the traverse, both corners (left and right) are not well protected, especially first move for the left corner. Relatively smooth sailing after this move. Sure is a memorable route.

Solid anchors(2) at the top.

Girls and Buoys from the top
Girls and Buoys from the top