Begin by climbing an offwidth crack to a sloping ledge. Either make a small traverse left and up over a small overhang to another sloping ledge (5.8), or as a variation follow the crack straight up and over the overhang to the ledge (5.10a). From here move onto the face and up to an overhanging block at the top.
Number 5 in order from the left(north) to right(south) end of the crag, as it appears facing the rock from the base.
Top rope or pro to 4 inch.
Scott Tingley approaching the crux.
Scott Tingley attempting the 5.10a variation.
|By Steven Robert Edwards|
Aug 1, 2013
I wanted to do this climb, but couldn't find good anchor points to set a TR up from. It is just to the right of the observation deck while facing the rock.
|By Dave Alden|
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 4, 2014
Setting a TR anchor for this route can be tricky. As you well know, the tree line sets back quite a ways from the top of this route. In order to set an anchor here, you can either:
Use close to 60' of webbing to extend an anchor from the treeline above or
Use traditional protection to build an anchor closer to the edge.
The last time I climbed the route I used the first option. You may even be able to find a small boulder up top somewhere to sling for an anchor. It's a very fun route though and worth the effort or setting a TR anchor.