On the back side of the G-Friend Boulder (see The Girlfriend Traverse for location) is a fantastic problem with a sds. Pull hard and throw to a good sloper then use a good edge and undercling to top out. In the book Colorado Bouldering it says that a stand up start is V1, but a sds hasn't been done. Well, that's false and I recommend trying it with the sds even though it's f...ing hard.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 25, 2001
...When you hit the sloping rail traverse left on line of crimpers and bust a move left to a sloping layback then up. The f.a. of the original line avoids the straight up jug finish. The problem Smith talks about is just right of Face Full of Brian. Had an old bolt on it. Ryan did the first and I did the second. (assuming the bolt meant nothing)
|By Chip Phillips|
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 3, 2002
rating: V6-7 7A+
hey ryan, why not call it Girlfriend's Backside - ha ha
|By Brandon English|
Apr 4, 2006
This is really just one move. Fun but not really 4stars.
|By Luke Childers|
Apr 26, 2009
rating: V8- 7B
Fun line... but I agree with others in that it's a one move wonder. I gave it a V8- because that one more is tough. But after thinking some more about it and comparing it to Face Full of Brian, solid(V8), I think it's more like V7. Still, it may only be one move, but if you can't do the move than the grade should stand. You can't fault a routes difficulty based on one move alone. This problem is worth a visit. But if you climb V8 regularly I think you will find this one short lived.
|By Joshua Merriam|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2009
rating: V5 6C
This came up in the new *classics* feature, but has a "V?" grade because of one annonymous coward rating. Can the admin for the area fix this?
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 15, 2009
Done, but you may not agree with my rating. I just picked what looked like the consensus (I've never been on it). Someone suggested that the "Classics" generator be modified to use the consensus rating for each route, which would also solve this problem.
|By Andrew Vojslavek|
May 2, 2011
Some buddies were working this line the other day, and I noticed an exit going left.
It doesn't look like anyone had cleaned it off, but I did my best with a boars hair brush. I will go back and clean it up some more.
(do the crux first move and then) From the start of the V1, make a big move left towards the obvious arete pinch. Match, and work up and left to big holds.
It doesn't change the grade, just a harder finish. The finish alone could be a V3-4ish from the stand. I sent it, if it has been done before let me know. (Girlfriend's Darkside, is what I am calling it for now.)
There is also a a project. Start matched on the left hand start,hold, go right hand to obvious crimp and finish up and left. Very hard, not so classy though.