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Shagg Crag
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Ginseng Route 
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Zagg Shagg 
Unsorted Routes:

Ginseng Route 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Bob Parrott
Page Views: 4,586
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Dec 8, 2007
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Ginseng. Tightrope climbs the line of draws to the...

Description 

Ginseng is perhaps the best route at Shagg. It's pretty much the perfect endurance test (for the Northeast). Start off a pile of boulders left of the obvious right-angling weakness of The Great Escape (10d).

The first half of the route climbs up a beautiful pane of Shagg's trademark fine-grained granite. Unlike granite elsewhere in the area, this rock forms into perfect horizontal slots that make for good, if a bit slopey, handholds. A few taxing moves take you to a break. This is where the cliff changes to schist and the angle kicks back even more.

The schist is a bit reminiscent of the rock at Orange Crush at Rumney and offers interesting big flake/sidepull features. Like all good endurance routes, a tough move guards the anchors.


Protection 

8 bolts



Photos of Ginseng Route Slideshow Add Photo
Joe Terravecchia on Ginseng. <br />P Cole photo.1998
Joe Terravecchia on Ginseng.
P Cole photo.1998
Chadwick sticking one of the hard moves.
Chadwick sticking one of the hard moves.
Cutting feet isn't necessary, but it is stylish.
BETA PHOTO: Cutting feet isn't necessary, but it is stylish.
Ginseng Route
Ginseng Route
Falling at the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Falling at the crux.
And so it begins... Dan R. starts up Ginseng Route.
And so it begins... Dan R. starts up Ginseng Route...
Comments on Ginseng Route Add Comment
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By Echoinfi
Jan 9, 2010

A great extension of this route is to put a long draw on the anchor and cut climber right along the flake to the fat lady anchor and then finish on Fat Pig. Very awesome climbing, 5.13a.