Mountain Project: Climbing Eldorado Canyon SP

Another short pitch on the "Tour of 5.10 Variations to Gambit," this one improves slightly over Missing Link on quality. From the big ledge above Missing Link (or the top of the dihedral pitch of Gambit), belay near a pine tree. Work up a short, bulging, triangular corner with a fist crack (briefly 5.9) to another ledge, step right to a steep dihedral, and ascend a nice finger crack to a larger ledge (Yosemite Ledge).

From the belay on Yosemite Ledge, continue straight up easier cracks overhead, or, perhaps better, traverse to the left margin of the massive Shirttail face, and join the spectacular summit pitch of Tiger Balm Arete.

Protection

Eldo gear to a #1 Camalot, plus a #3.5 or 4 Camalot for a short fist crack below the crux.

Comments on Ginseng Junkie

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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 10, 2002

This one move wonder is pretty easy for 5.10, it seems a lot of folks climb it thinking they are still on Gambit. A worthwhile variation in any case.

By Graham Rogers
Mar 16, 2003

Did this yesterday on that fine 75 degree day. Agreed, this felt soft for Eldo 10a because you are through the crux to a nice jug so quickly.I'd think tall people may never find the crux, or for them this could be called a half-move wonder...or one-third move.Still a satisfying move, no matter. We definitely enjoyed the finish continuing after the crux left, as suggested, on Tiger Balm arete; so airy, sooo nice!

By Bryson Slothower
Apr 12, 2003

Last pitch has spectacular exposure but the rock quality leaves a bit to be desired, climb carefully.

By Brian Aitken
Apr 6, 2008

From a follower's perspective, the grade may be a bit contrived because the moves are over with so quickly... but the leader may feel much differently.

Great variation to Gambit.

By Kyle Kunkle
Apr 21, 2009

The jug at the crux felt a bit loose to me. I'm a bigger guys and not a very good climber (lots of weight on my hands) but I'm sure I heard a little cracking. Be safe and have fun.

By Erik W
From: Bay Area, CA
Apr 23, 2009

With a 60m rope you can summit in one pitch from the top of P2 on Gambit (making for a stellar 2 pitch climb of Shirt Tail Peak). Crux felt more like 5.9/5.9+ than a typical Eldo 10a. We took the first traverse after the crux to meet up with the Tiger Balm Arete and followed it straight to the top. Bring plenty of shoulder length slings to keep rope drag manageable. Highly recommended.

By Richard Radcliffe
From: Louisville, CO
Dec 20, 2009

Is it possible that an important foothold has broken off at mid-crux? Maybe I'm going crazy, but the left foot seen in the "Already a hand on the jug" photo just wasn't there. That little bit seemed a lot harder than 5.9 to both me and my partner, especially if the "...5.9 corner past the pine tree..." (Clint) is really 5.9 (which felt more like 5.7-5.8 at most).

I humbly suggest that the crux section of GJ is now solid 11.

By Matt Toensing
From: Boulder
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.9-

Hmmm... Richard, you haven't climbed too many Eldo 5.11s have you? The crux may have lost a foothold, but there are plenty of others to use. The gear is great at this "5.10a" section, and I don't even think that it qualifies as 10a. A competent Eldo 5.9 leader could easily climb this route. That said though, I thoroughly enjoyed this route. The only this is the first pitch is too short. Also, you don't really need a wide piece for the first pitch (I'll call it 5.8). There is a solid nut placement at the base of the wide crack before the 5 ft of wide crack to the ledge. A 4 fits better than a 3, so if you only bring one wide piece, bring a 4.

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Ginseng Junkie

5.10a

Description

Protection