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Ginger Bread 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: George Connor, Robert Oravetz, 1975.
Page Views: 5,071
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (93)
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BETA PHOTO: "Ginger Bread". Photo by Blitzo.

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Description 

Starts left of "Fear Of Flying".
Take the righthand of two corners. Climb up, undercling right and climb a flake to it's top.
Climb a wide crack or the face to the left, using the crack for pro.
Can be done in one long pitch.
Rappel off back side, 80 Ft.

Protection 

Pro to 4 inches.


Photos of Ginger Bread Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: one long pitch with awesome features
one long pitch with awesome features
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the start of ginger bread
A view of the start of ginger bread
Rock Climbing Photo: Former Arizona climbing pal Monica says hello to S...
Former Arizona climbing pal Monica says hello to S...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brett beginning ginger bread.
Brett beginning ginger bread.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fellow climber on Ginger Bread. Photo taken from t...
Fellow climber on Ginger Bread. Photo taken from t...

Comments on Ginger Bread Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 26, 2016
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jul 4, 2007

Fun but spooky for 5.7, looks like that whole flake will be on the ground one of these days!
By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

This is a good 5.7.
By B RAD
Feb 11, 2011

Can I get away without a #4 on this route? Currently i only go up to a #3 C4 and a #9 hex. Thanks!
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Feb 11, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

You can get away without a #4, but if I recall, this will require you to runout the last pitch a bit (on the last pitch, you face climb to the left of a pretty wide crack that you stuff gear into). Others can correct me here, but if you are pushing your limit, you may want a wide piece.
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Feb 13, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

As Jay said, a 5.7 leader will want a #4. If you are willing to run it out a bit on ~5.7 , you'll be ok with the #3 and the hex, I think.
By Floyd Hayes
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I thought P1, especially the upper half, was just as good if not better than any 5.7 pitch at Lover's Leap. Two BD #4 cams are useful on each pitch. Take along at least a half dozen slings, you'll want them for a short traverse and for gear placed deep in the wide crack.
By Brett Schooley
Apr 23, 2013

You can get away without a #4 camalot on the upper part of the first pitch by using a knob tieoff, a bomber number 10 hex, and two #3 camelots To (over)protect the upper crack drop a #10 hex, #3 camelot, knob tieoff, and a #4 camelot prior to topout
By Logan Swartz
From: Davis, CA
Jan 26, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

No need for a #4. #3s fit in the upper crack, p2, which is an awesome section!! The flake on the upper section of p1 eats #3s!! Had to do in two pitches since didn't have any #3s for the upper crack. Recommend to bring 3 #3s if you got them.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jan 27, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree with caughtinside. The lower half of this route has flaky hollow sounding rock. And as far as the fun factor goes, it pales in comparison to it's next door neighbor Fear of Flying.
By wsperry
From: San Jose/Lafayette
Jul 16, 2015

Did a cool variation for the second pitch,instead of climbing next to the wide crack, I traversed up and left to the corner slinging chickenheads the whole way. Nice and exposed, super fun.
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Feb 26, 2016

I agree with wsperry. The left hand variation on knobs is good even if it's runout a bit. The wide crack is more akward to protect (for me). The left runout face option is good if you're comfortable with low angle runouts on big holds.

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