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Alcohol Wall
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Gin Ricky 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Harrison, Paul Crawford, Paul Van Betten, Sal Mamusia, Paul Obenheim 1983
Page Views: 2,550
Submitted By: John Wilder on Sep 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Comes from Idaho sends like a local

Description 

A proud and beautiful line, Gin Ricky ascends the prominent right facing dihedral located on the left hand side of the Alcohol Wall. While it does have a distinct crux section, endurance is the name of the game on this route.


Location 

This route is the obvious, clean dihedral just to the right of the Lotta Balls wall.


Protection 

A healthy rack, emphasis on small gear (stoppers and cams). Two ropes to rappel.



Photos of Gin Ricky Slideshow Add Photo
Getting into the business
Getting into the business
Idaho stranger making a proud send
Idaho stranger making a proud send
Gin Ricky (10c) climbs the right most corner
BETA PHOTO: Gin Ricky (10c) climbs the right most corner
Comments on Gin Ricky Add Comment
Show which comments
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Nov 27, 2006

Really nice. This climb has great movement and a really cool crux sequence that, for me, was not immediately apparent. I would definately bring extra small stuff (purple and grey TCU, green and blue aliens, lots of small wires). 180 ft to the achors = full value.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 28, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Really good route with cool moves and plenty of climbing. The crux is plenty thin and if you have big sausage fingers, expect to be challenged more than a diminutive waif. This route eats up the pro, be it stoppers or small TCU's. Pump factor is not too bad as there are plenty of opportunities to rest, except during the crux section.

For rack I had a full set of stoppers, a couple of small TCU's to 3/4" (could have easily used a triple set here) and then a double set of cams to 3", and one 3.5" cam.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 28, 2008
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Great route and was very happy that the lead was not mine. Even with my ladyfingers I found the route to have long sections of extremely thin fingers. Leading this route is a great send no matter what your ability is.

Fun & recommended!

By MJW
From: Boise, ID
Oct 29, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Ditto on the comments above. I used triples on 0 and 1 TCU's. Much of the crack is parallel so placing nuts is a bit trickier in these sections. Great route to push yourself on as the pro is good and you can get it anywhere you want.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 1, 2008
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

MJW, is this you?



By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 27, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Bring a good sized rack - lots of wires and small to medium cams plus a few large cams. You can lace this up as much as you want. Starts easy, ends easy but Middle 1/2 to 2/3 is solid 5.10 with short sections of thin tip/palming cruxes with poor slippery feet. Full value 180 feet of crack climbing. If you only have time for one hard route I think Rob Roy is a little more aesthetic.

By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Mar 19, 2011

This route is physically harder but mentally easier than Rob Roy. Thin crux but plenty of pro. Full value!

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Oct 4, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The crux section and beyond felt like an Indian Creek corner finger splitter. There's a specific sequence you can use to gain a lot of ground fast. The gear is bomber, the moves are great and this route is so long- a classic. I can see this being 5.10d if you're a bit shorter as the crux moves involved a longer pull on an OK finger lock. Stellar!

By josh holcomb
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 21, 2012

This climb is beautiful. Probably the best single pitch at this grade at RR. I used triple .3 BD and under, two .4 and .5 BD, and single 2,3, and 4 BD. Save the 4 for the very end of the climb. I only used one stopper about thumbnail size. This climb is perfect for breaking into this grade because you can almost always get gear when you want it.