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 ADVANCED
Confederate Cracks
Routes Sorted
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Adhesive Love S 
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Chinese Soul Food S 
Classique T 
Deft Jam T 
Devil's Candy S 
Door Prize S 
Entwash T 
Fat Bastard S 
Gilgamek Vagina T 
Gimp and Wheezer S 
Hackberry Crack T 
Knob Creek S 
Seamstress, The S 
Solid S 
Stove Top S 
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WMA Crack T 
Unsorted Routes:

Gimp and Wheezer 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chad Watkins
Page Views: 2,086
Submitted By: Elijah Flenner on Oct 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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BETA PHOTO: Gimp and Wheezer 5.10a climbs the right watermark ...

Description 

Great climbing from bottom to top. Interesting pocketed climbing leads to a large flake and then some good slab climbing to finish. This climb is also very well protected.

Location 

Located on the Walls of Moria. It is the third bolted line from the left hand side. The Walls of Moria is just past the Idaho Boulders if you are walking from the cabins. Look for black streaked walls with lichen. The walls are much longer than they look from the ground. There is a sign.

Protection 

Eleven bolts to a two bolt anchor.


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By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Feb 16, 2014

When you're over in this area cranking out the crack climbs, switch it up a little bit and leave the rack in the pack and jump on this sport route. It doesn't look like much but you will be pleasantly surprised how fun it is. For a while there, poison ivy was growing all over at the base of this climb. It was cleaned up when I climbed it in the fall of 2013 but there was still some plants here and there.
By Spenser Bolte 1
From: Abilene, Texas
Mar 27, 2014

Super unique holds and movement, well worth putting the rack aside for a bit.