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 ADVANCED
Higher Security Risk
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L to R R to L Alpha
Cold Shot 
Evolution aka Gimme Back My Bullets 
Gimme 3 Steps 
Turmoil 

Gimme 3 Steps 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: T. Hayes and S. Annecone, 1993
Page Views: 284
Submitted By: Steve Annecone on Oct 26, 2003
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  • Description 

    This route is located just left of Cold Shot on Higher Security, up the hill a bit from Crash Test Blondes. It goes up three distinct tiers or "steps".

    Start on the prow at the left edge of the wall, climbing past some small bushes (5.7/5.8) to a ledge. Follow the obvious thin cracks up to the next ledge (5.10c)... nuts and smaller camming devices can protect this section well.

    From this last ledge, clip the bolt out right and move up into the shallow, left-facing corner (crux). A few feet of sustained side-pulling, liebacking, and thin footwork will get you to the second bolt. The climbing is still a bit pumpy from there but eases up considerably. A small or medium cam in a horizontal can protect the climbing above the last bolt. Rap about 60 feet to the ground from a 2-bolt anchor.


    Protection 

    2 bolts protect the crux section well, although nuts and small to medium camming devices are recommended for sections both above and below the crux.



    Comments on Gimme 3 Steps Add Comment
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    By Tom Hayes
    Jun 11, 2006

    In December I replaced the bolts (including the anchors) on this route after Steve and I put up Evolution. Should feel better now without those 5/16" shorties. This route is pretty stiff and contains a lot of variety. Enjoy.