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Gilman Tunnels

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Broken Arrows, The 
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Gilman Tunnels 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,247'
Location: 35.7358, -106.764 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 51,231
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Aug 7, 2006
Forecast:
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The Gilman Tunnels Area. The first Tunnel is visi...

Description 

Boasting some of New Mexico's best granite sport climbing, this area is a sharp contrast to the red and brown color surrounding it. Short approaches, less than vertical to vertical rock, and mostly single pitch sport climbs. However, there are some trad lines here and a few multi-pitch climbs. The rock quality varies, and some can be quite loose. A helmet here is not a bad idea.

Because of the shape of the valley here, summertime temperatures can be hot! Mornings are nice on the west facing walls. During the afternoon one can jump in the river to cool off, then climb on the east facing walls later during the afternoon. In the spring the river can be roaring and crossing it to climb on the east side could be cold/scary.

This area is relatively new and most climbs still have not seen many ascents. Gilman can be accessed throughout the year and has no restrictions for access.


Getting There 

Follow the directions to the Jemez Valley Area, and from San Ysidro, drive 8.8 miles on highway 4. After the Jemez Valley School, and a big dip in the road followed by a gradual turn to the right, look for SR 485 to the left (AKA FR 379 after it turns to dirt). After taking this left turn follow the road past Canones, continuing up the road until the road disappears into tunnels through the rock. Drive through both tunnels and park anywhere there is a pull-out.


44 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',7],['5.10',15],['5.11',9],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gilman Tunnels:
Sierra Corazon   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   Second Tunnel
Trads into Rads   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Entrapment   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Wet Feet   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 50'   Dr. Seuss Wall
Old Punks on Crack   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
Out of the Shadows   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   Second Tunnel
Moist Hoist   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   Spectator Wall
Cyber Crime   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Vicarious Living   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 210'   Spectator Wall
Big Brother   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Under Siege   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
Hostile Takeover   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
Ecksteinator   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
Dough Boy   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   The Broken Arrows : Perp Area
Browse More Classics in Gilman Tunnels

Featured Route For Gilman Tunnels
Cruising the fun upper headwall of "Under Siege".

Under Siege 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Right Arrow
More excellent thin face climbing with small crimps and sidepulls on slightly less-than-vertical granite. Similar in character to Happy Feet, this line begins with difficult, strenuous face moves with a crux between the 1st and 3rd bolt. Higher, a relatively easy lip encounter leads to more 5.10 face climbing to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on Gilman Tunnels Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 27, 2007

Warning: the bolt counts listed in Jemez Rock and RC NM for many routes in this area are incorrect. Often you'll need more quickdraws. I haven't climbed here much (so this is not a complete list), but in 2 days of climbing here, I've found discrepancies on the following climbs (numbers from Jemez Rock): #1,#2, #6, #7, #16, #17, #22, #23.

This is a really cool newer climbing area. Thanks to those who developed this recently there is lots to do! That the developers are returning to improve the climbs through better bolt positions is the reason the bolt counts are off sometimes, I think.

By Christian Garland
From: Talala, OK
Dec 28, 2010

I just watched the movie Gamer with Gerard Butler and in the last 5 seconds of the movie you see them driving on a road with tunnels....its Gilman Tunnels! Check it out next time you see the movie.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 28, 2010

If you like that, check out "3:10 to Yuma" with Russel Crowe & Christian Bale. There's a 10-minute sequence involving the Tunnels, plus many more NM areas such as Diablo Canyon....

By Kim Romero-Oak
Jun 24, 2012

I was at Gilman today looking at Soylent Green and saw a route just to the left of it that was not in the guide book Jemez Rock. Anybody know the name and grade of the climb?