Boasting some of New Mexico's best granite sport climbing, this area is a sharp contrast to the red and brown color surrounding it. Short approaches, less than vertical to vertical rock, and mostly single pitch sport climbs. However, there are some trad lines here and a few multi-pitch climbs. The rock quality varies, and some can be quite loose. A helmet here is not a bad idea.
Because of the shape of the valley here, summertime temperatures can be hot! Mornings are nice on the west facing walls. During the afternoon one can jump in the river to cool off, then climb on the east facing walls later during the afternoon. In the spring the river can be roaring and crossing it to climb on the east side could be cold/scary.
This area is relatively new and most climbs still have not seen many ascents. Gilman can be accessed throughout the year and has no restrictions for access.
Follow the directions to the Jemez Valley Area, and from San Ysidro, drive 8.8 miles on highway 4. After the Jemez Valley School, and a big dip in the road followed by a gradual turn to the right, look for SR 485 to the left (AKA FR 379 after it turns to dirt). After taking this left turn follow the road past Canones, continuing up the road until the road disappears into tunnels through the rock. Drive through both tunnels and park anywhere there is a pull-out.
44 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Gilman Tunnels
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gilman Tunnels:
Featured Route For Gilman Tunnels
Cyber Crime 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b NM
: Jemez Valley Area
: ... : Left Arrow
Perhaps the best line on the wall, Cyber Crime offers a long pitch of excellent rock and movement. Begin as for Entrapment with some tricky moves up the narrow rib. Move onto the sheer slab, and briefly join Trads into Rads. Bust out right for more tenuous face climbing to a distinct crux at a small roof. Surmount the roof with good balance and continue more easily to the chains....[more] Browse More Classics in NM
Latest Regional Forum Messages
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 27, 2007
Warning: the bolt counts listed in Jemez Rock and RC NM for many routes in this area are incorrect. Often you'll need more quickdraws. I haven't climbed here much (so this is not a complete list), but in 2 days of climbing here, I've found discrepancies on the following climbs (numbers from Jemez Rock): #1,#2, #6, #7, #16, #17, #22, #23.
This is a really cool newer climbing area. Thanks to those who developed this recently there is lots to do! That the developers are returning to improve the climbs through better bolt positions is the reason the bolt counts are off sometimes, I think.
|By Christian Garland|
From: Talala, OK
Dec 28, 2010
I just watched the movie Gamer with Gerard Butler and in the last 5 seconds of the movie you see them driving on a road with tunnels....its Gilman Tunnels! Check it out next time you see the movie.
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 28, 2010
If you like that, check out "3:10 to Yuma" with Russel Crowe & Christian Bale. There's a 10-minute sequence involving the Tunnels, plus many more NM areas such as Diablo Canyon....
|By Kim Romero-Oak|
Jun 24, 2012
I was at Gilman today looking at Soylent Green and saw a route just to the left of it that was not in the guide book Jemez Rock. Anybody know the name and grade of the climb?