Gill's Nose 

Are you sure Gill did the FA of Gill's Nose. I think it was Roger Weigand, probably with Pete Cleveland. At least I recall him telling me he did.

I've been known to be wrong.

According to the Climber and Hiker's Guidebook (1970), Gill did it first, but a foothold broke. Maybe Roger Weigand did the first "foothold-less" ascent.

I thought you might like to see a few "In the Day" photo's. When I took these in '72-'73 I don't think the route had been repeated yet. We used to gather here in the afternoon to give a few tries and the pictures are of Pete Cleveland and Scott Steward discussing the moves and a picture of "Crazy" Tom Deutchler on a TR attempt.

the proud first lead of GILL'S NOSE was by Tommy Deutchler

Is that a boeline on a coil?

If you're talking about Tommy D's tie-in, I think that's called a swami belt.

Jay-

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the 11b "variation" the original line, and the 11c actually a more direct variation of that line?

James, I think you are right that the indirect finish is the original line and the direct, harder finish was added later.

Does anyone know if Tommy Deutchler led the direct variation or if he went out left to the jug?

I'm still confused on which line is Gills Nose Lead. When I've top roped it in the past I've always gone straight up, not to the ledge jug on the left, (isn't that "Gills Cheek" or something?) but also I haven't used the arete. First off what's harder? Second, what's the original line? The Arete is the end of Peyote Blues correct?

Krys, Huston, on the lead did you go left or straight? Looks left in the photos. I've found straight up to be a little longer in moves but the way I do that little traverse to the jug left felt really insecure, which of course is fine on TR but on lead I think I prefer staying right and more "secure".

The gear that I got in was 100% though.

Ah, fuck it, I'm splitting hairs, I'm going to go for straight up.

Hey Nick,
I think going to the jug left is the original line put up by Gill. I believe I did it the way Jason H had (from looking at his pics). Dave Groth showed me the way you are describing. Going on the arete is a harder variation which has a possible ground fall from the crux. I dropped a pack from it a month ago (Jason H was there too) and it stopped just above the ground but there was almost no rope stretch so any fall there wouldn't be pleasant.

Ok, so we will need the patented Vince Evans running be-lay.

Got the direct! It was agreed that I probably wouldn't have decked from the top crux with a belayer jump off that log holding the erosion back.
Speaking of erosion a big rock at the base of Gills Nose turned over today from just someone standing on it. Lots of stuff is loose around the base of the east bluff. Watch out!

Rhoads was on it today, a great lead! I had him on belay and I don't think he would have decked from the upper crux.

Great job Nick. Congrats.

Ah, after looking at the photos I think I might have crotched the rope in the event of a fall. Good thing I don't ever have to do it again! Except for the future "retro flash" I guess.

Is a retro flash when you get senile and forget your beta so it seems like an onsight? If so that's happened to me many times... Gotta change all those styles on my 8a scorecard, if only I could remember my login name... Congrats Nick, is that a FL of the direct?

Not sure on the FL. There was a "2nd generation DLFA" there, Scott, and he thought it was.
You are correct on the "retro flash".

Gill's Nose Direct saw a second lead yesterday from a visiting SLC climber. Andrew Burr was taking pics for Climbing Magazine as it went down. Look forward to an article!

Andrew Burr's photos are sick! I can't wait to see them!