starts at Terminal Inexactitude and goes right up the crack
the crack that goes just to the right of Terminal Inexactitude and just to the left of Nebulous Precision
Trad route, mostly hand size to finger size protection is required. not sure if chains or not, the book only says "Gear."
|By Brian Hestetune|
From: Logan, UT
Oct 29, 2012
A single rack, with extras for an anchor and a sling for the roof, would do just fine on this climb. You may want a BD#4 or #5 to protect the crux (I used a #4 and it was 'alright'), although you may be able to push a smaller one way up in there. There's an obvious belay before walking off with a plethora of choices for gear size (0.5-3). The best crack is BD#3 sized.
This climb is 5.7 -5.9 up until the crux. Pulling over the roof is where the crux is and is some sort of .10. The crux is very committing mentally and physically and made the climb. The ledge climbing in the start is a little bleh.
Mar 29, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I agree with the #4 being "alright" at the crux. A #5 would probably have been a lot better. Looking at the placement I felt that a swinging fall would have pulled that cam right out. Great climb, really fun once you get past the ledges.