|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 170'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Drone Stephens and Bob Ashworth (1973)|
|Submitted By:||Bryan G on Apr 12, 2011|
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|Comments on Gilligan's Chicken||Add Comment|
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By Bryan G
Apr 12, 2011
|Just 10 feet to the left of the start of Gilligan's Chicken is a cool looking offwidth flake which goes up about 50 feet to a large boulder that forms a roof. The flake goes at 5.9 and takes a few cams from 3.5" to 4.5". Once under the roof you need to hand-traverse to the right. From here wander back left, passing a large tree and then back right to finish up some chock-stones in a corner. Watch out for loose stuff at the top. Scramble down the 3rd class gully to descend.|
By Osprey Overhang
Apr 12, 2011
|I've always enjoyed this climb, and I've never seen anyone on it or heard mention of it before. My thought, is if you can climb the first ten feet, you will have no problem topping it out. It has been a while since 've been on it, but I think you can escape at the halfway point by traversing right to the rap station at the top of Sherrie's Crack?|
By Mark P Thomas
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I agree that the entry in the beginning is perhaps the crux of the route. Although I could have gotten by without it, I was happy to have a #6 BD cam to protect the entry.
The chimney is very secure with lots of cheater holds to help your arms & legs. You can place pro in the chimney without too much drag (note I was climbing with doubles). There is a thin seam that occasionally opens up, so I placed a nut and small C3, 'cause I might as well! More optional than the entry piece. The exit was a little strange, so it was nice to place a piece there in the top chockstone. The top chockstone seemed large enough to be worth placing a #2 BD cam behind it.
I think the entry to the upper chimney section was another crux in the route, but I suspect that I crawled into it facing the wrong way. Although the top was somewhat dirty, which was disappointing, most of the route was very nice!