Gill Pinch Roof  V4

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Type:  Boulder, 15 feet Consensus:  V4 [details] FA:  John Gill? Submitted By:  Anthony Baraff on Aug 8, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Micah, past the business and headed for the face w...

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Description 

Just to the right of the face with the Keyhole crack problems there is a small covered alcove with a crack running up and right in the back to where it meets a horizontal crack below a low roof. There are two overlapping problems: the Gill Pinch Roof, and Larsen's Problem.

For Gill Pinch, start with your hands in the crack, and reach out to the two black stained pinches at the left lip of the roof (don’t use the left wall of the alcove, it is off). Use the higher pinch to reach the good handhold and undercling two feet above the lip. Get your feet up and reach way right. Shift your weight and work up to the horizontal 7 feet above the left. Traverse off right in order to descend.

Is there a move on this problem that isn’t completely incredible? A very satisfying send, and when you’re done, get on Dirty White Boys and Puerto Ricans which starts at the same spot.

Location 

Just around the corner past the face with the Keyhole crack problems.

Protection 

A pad, maybe a spotter too. Be careful as you traverse off right.

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the double pinches