Gila Monster 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Jeff Giddings ~1990 |
| Submitted By: | Mark Mathis on Aug 10, 2007 |
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Reaching up to clip the 4th bolt on Gila Monst...
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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>
The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
A new online Tres Piedras Route Guide from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note. From the guide:
Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiver found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner, requests a waiver, NO fires, no chalk and "please close any gates".
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
On August 19, 2009 the landowner stated: "Yes I still own the property, and yes I'd still like to have waivers on hand - even or perhaps especially from your organization. Only once in awhile do I have problems with climbers, mostly not picking up after themselves. My biggest gripe is that despite repeated requests, the climbers don't remove protection (edit: colored webbing, shiny hardware) from the climbing routes, which is both lazy and unattractive. Your organization could do me a big favor by doing a group climb and removing the crap that others have left on the various routes so that it is both a pristine part of the landscape, and so that each climber must figure out his own route without relying on the handiwork of others."
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description 5.9 friction. Crux between bolts 2 and 3.
Location On the face to the right of the right facing corner just to the right of Digital Dilemma. Lower or rap from anchors.
Protection 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor w/ chains. Optional TCU placement in horizontal crack between bolts 3 and 4.
By tim naylor
Sep 4, 2007
rating: 5.9+
| nice climb, with good rock. |
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Sep 6, 2007
| FA: Jeff Giddings - circa 1990 |
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
May 7, 2009
rating: 5.9
| I recently learned, from an elder Tres Piedras climber, that back in the olden-days (before the bolt line went in), they used to climb a line in the area of Gila Monster that was led on gear.
Apparently it started a little to the right (basically the start of the 5.8 crack to the right) but then continued up the gray water streak, then traversed left along the horizontal/overlap (between current bolts 3&4), and then finished somewhere up to the left (up the crack or face, that wasn't clear). He didn't say how hard it was, but it sounds and looks bold.
It was proposed by my informant that this old line may have been the one called "Crack n' Friction" in the typewritten guide; but I have some doubts about that, because "Crack n' Friction" was supposed to be a 5.5.
There's at least two other cracks that may match the description of "Crack n' Friction" to the right of Zorro, maybe 30-50 feet farther right of there. Anyone know the actual location of this old Crack n' Friction line? |
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