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Checkered Demon
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Checkered Demon 
Face Shot 
Gigantor 
Houser Arete 
Ruby and the Dykes 
Take a Hike 

Gigantor 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Ted Thompson
Page Views: 1,568
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Aug 8, 2009
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Andrew coming off of Gigantor.

Description 

On the right side of Checkered Demon, next to 'Take a Hike' 12d, is an amazing series of dirt-red patina plates. Gigantor begins on a 25 ft. high flake / ledge and climbs through these plates directly to the top of the feature. The climb is characterized by long, powerful moves between the plates, balance intensive footwork and a spicy finish.

Few good rests exist, and the climbing tends to get more difficult as you gain altitude. Unlike its neighbor 'Take a Hike' this climb is generally free of birds nests.


Location 

Right of 'Take a Hike' on Checkered Demon.


Protection 

Bolts.



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By bheller
From: SL UT
Aug 9, 2009

FA Tedd Thompson 89?
Spaced out bolts with SMC hangers- originally rated 13b.
Wolfgang Gullich got bouted on this climb during his visit.

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
May 14, 2012
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a

This route seemed very solid to me at 13b (I didn't RP it, just worked it bolt-to-bolt). The moves between the chipped holds seemed reachy to me, but this style of climbing tends to have moves that feel vicious when working them, then come together fairly quickly on RP.

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Jun 12, 2012
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a

After working this route and red pointing it and climbing many of the other hard routes at the City, I think an upgrade to 13c is appropriate for Gigantor. It has a very thin, technical crux at the very top of the route with no good rest (assuming you stay on the face and don't "cheat" over to the arete). It requires a rare combination of technical precision, endurance and mental focus. This style of climbing is becoming a lost art form, but allows you to climb the most magnificent features.

This is an outstanding route in a beautiful setting. It's great that this formation is publicly owned now.

By peachy spohn
Jun 25, 2013

Super stout at .13b, but a fantastic line. I didn't get the RP yet, but Mike is correct in saying it gets progressively harder. The moves are fun and invigoratingly different, especially through the mid-section. And the top houses some powerful reaches between crimps.