Gigantor 5.13
| 1,118 page views
Good page?   |
Andrew coming off of Gigantor.
Add Photo  Printer View
Description On the right side of Checkered Demon, next to 'Take a Hike' 12d, is an amazing series of dirt-red patina plates. Gigantor begins on a 25 ft. high flake / ledge and climbs through these plates directly to the top of the feature. The climb is characterized by long, powerful moves between the plates, balance intensive footwork and a spicy finish.
Few good rests exist, and the climbing tends to get more difficult as you gain altitude. Unlike its neighbor 'Take a Hike' this climb is generally free of birds nests.
Location Right of 'Take a Hike' on Checkered Demon.
Protection Bolts.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Aug 9, 2009
| FA Tedd Thompson 89?
Spaced out bolts with SMC hangers- originally rated 13b.
Wolfgang Gullich got bouted on this climb during his visit. |
By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
May 14, 2012
rating: 5.13c
| This route seemed very solid to me at 13b (I didn't RP it, just worked it bolt-to-bolt). The moves between the chipped holds seemed reachy to me, but this style of climbing tends to have moves that feel vicious when working them, then come together fairly quickly on RP.
|
By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Jun 12, 2012
rating: 5.13c
| After working this route and red pointing it and climbing many of the other hard routes at the City, I think an upgrade to 13c is appropriate for Gigantor. It has a very thin, technical crux at the very top of the route with no good rest (assuming you stay on the face and don't "cheat" over to the arete). It requires a rare combination of technical precision, endurance and mental focus. This style of climbing is becoming a lost art form, but allows you to climb the most magnificent features.
This is an outstanding route in a beautiful setting. It's great that this formation is publicly owned now. |
|
RSS Feed
3 more...
Slideshow