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Giant Man 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 11,976
Submitted By: seth hamel on Aug 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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Giant Man. Overhanging, high, lots of atmosphere.

Description 

As you approach the Hinterlands, Giant Man is off to the right in the little alcove up the hill. It is a very recognizable route, dominant and steep, bulging over the top of a 55 or so foot slab. The slab section is 5.7, enjoyable, following a neat-looking dike that tapers the further up you get.

Pull up onto the steep after clipping the anchors for the .7 and pull on the biggest jugs that could ever exist for about four or so moves. The mid-section is where it starts to get harder, traverse left a couple of moves (while realizing that there's a lot of exposure up here). Pulling up out of the steepest part of the route is grunty, and finish up on a couple of more technical moves. It is a beautiful route.

Protection 

Bring a sling for the anchors right below the beginning of the overhang. A couple of times I have led the slab, cleaned the draws while being belayed down, and then starting from there and going to the top. To me it was worth it to avoid the rope drag. 16 Bolts. Quick clips at the top.


Photos of Giant Man Slideshow Add Photo
almost to the top crux of Giant Man
almost to the top crux of Giant Man
me leading Giant Man in the Hinterlands at Rumney
me leading Giant Man in the Hinterlands at Rumney
Giant Man. Steep. Right hand: HUUUUUGE jug. Coming...
Giant Man. Steep. Right hand: HUUUUUGE jug. Coming...
jakob... hard move...
jakob... hard move...
otey taking a fall from the heartbreak moves up to...
otey taking a fall from the heartbreak moves up to...
Giant Man. Should give some sense of the business ...
Giant Man. Should give some sense of the business ...
The picture doesn't come close to giving it justic...
BETA PHOTO: The picture doesn't come close to giving it justic...
Giant Man
Giant Man
otey clipping from one of the monster jugs
otey clipping from one of the monster jugs
Giant Man. Where the "warm up" ends, and...
Giant Man. Where the "warm up" ends, and...

Comments on Giant Man Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 12, 2015
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

here is some video footage of me sending this amazing climb and the victory whipper afterwards...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 13, 2010

Nice going, Lee. Congrats. I liked the sound of the water in the background
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

thanks for putting it up mark! its a true rumney classic!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

i just noticed that it cut off the last 2 moves! that sucks... i love those moves...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 13, 2010

I was going to razz you on that: sure your foot didn't slip on the last move?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

ok here is a new edit with uncut beta footage (ie the last moves arent missing)....and... bonus.... it has a bad ass soundtrack!!!
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 14, 2010

If anyone was wondering, I got the name from an NPR story while driving up from Rhode Island for the weekend. It was about 2 students at Tufts (or maybe Dartmouth) who went around with one on the others shoulders and a blanket around to look like one person, Giantman, throwing gold coins (butterscotch candies) to people and giving speeches in a big booming voice. Apparently, it became quite a tradition for years and they drew a crowd.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 14, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

nice mark! i always wondered about that...
By S. Neoh
Aug 3, 2010

Forgive me if this a dumb question - are there perma-draws up on the steep section of Giant Man? If so, how many? One of the photos shows a long sling hanging from one of the anchors. Is it a perma-sling?
Thanks!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

yeah the steep stuff is all fixed slings.... the long sling on the anchor is very helpful for working the route but i didnt clip it on the redpoint...
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jun 11, 2012

Awe inspiring climb!
By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Oct 12, 2012

Hey What's the deal with the monster detached jug just beneath the second to last bolt? Has it been reinforced? Seems terribly hollow and that would certainly be a widow maker if it came down...

Nice route, the crux is definitely getting to the jug just above the anchor. The rest is 5.11 except maybe for one small easier crux in the middle.
By irujo
Nov 26, 2012

Try cleaning the slab on the way up, you can climb the 5.7 with only 2 quickdraws by doing just a tiny bit of down climbing. Just a thought thats helped people in the past to get rid of rope drag!
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 27, 2012

You shouldn't be getting any bad rope drag as long as you use a long sling at the Cold Feet anchor. There is no need to do a bunch of back cleaning.

If there are fixed draws on this, please double check that they are not worn with sharp edges, and don't hesitate to remove them if they are, even if you can't replace them.
By Dominic Serino
From: MA
Aug 10, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

The first draw on the overhang was worn out and getting sharp when I was on it today. I took it off; sorry I didn't have anything to replace it with.
By irujo
Apr 27, 2015

Now equipped with perma draws with help from Mike Lincoln! Some nasty and sharp draws were left up there... scary
By john strand
From: southern colo
Apr 28, 2015

I think perma draws are the stupidist thing EVER..period
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 28, 2015

Ah, but we haven't seen you on overhanging 'Orangahang' lately, John, which cuts your rope if you try to clean it by seconding or tramming, nor the other routes with similar issues or potential traffic jams if people are creating CFs cleaning routes that cross others or share sections ;) I do tend to agree that they are highly overused though and need to be cleaned up more often. I saw the permas they put up and they are grey sleeved cable with steel biners, a vast improvement over ratty nylon 'project' slings with sharp biners. I appreciate the effort. I believe when the new FS Rumney Climbing Management Plan is announced it will probably address them (no more info- awaiting announcement from RCA and FS)

More non-Giantman specific discussion is probably better taken to the Eastern States section of the forum.
By irujo
May 1, 2015

John, there is room on those bolts for you to clip your own draws.
By zswan
From: Newton, MA
Aug 10, 2015

Is the loose jug near the 2nd draw new or always been there? There's plenty of options for jugs at that point, but the loose one is really, really easy to grab from below and only has a light 'x' chalked off to one side that isn't noticeable until you're above it. It seemed ok as long as you only pulled down, but the entire block (3-4 feet long?) shifted out nearly an inch when I tugged lightly on it.

If you look at this photo - mountainproject.com/v/10636945... it is the hold that the climber actually has in his right hand. There's a jug above and below it, so you can completely skip the loose block as long as you know about it.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 12, 2015

It must have loosened up. I don't tend to leave loose stuff when I prep routes. If there are good alternatives and it isn't an especially aesthetic hold it should probably be removed, when it can be done safely.
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