This obvious route was most likely climbed years ago by an unknown first ascentionist, but Ryan cleaned off a ton of loose rock and added modern anchors, so he deserves credit for that. If you are doing the route in 1 long pitch, make sure the belayer ties in, as it uses up an entire 60m cord. It can be rappelled in 2 pitches with a single rope.
Start at the base of the obvious, right-facing dihedral. Rappel down or walk off to the south.
There are 2 bolts on the slab leading up to the dihedral, the crack takes fingers thru fist sizes. Anchors at 90' and 190'.
Great climb! However, there are two huge scary rocks that look like they will fall one of these days. One at the first belay, you stand on it to clip the first bolt and another hanging over the top of the second pitch on the left.
Fabulous climb! I'm a newer trad leader, fortunately without a lack of gear. There's a fun variety of climbing, plenty of opportunity to place gear. Our group did a double rope rap with 70m ropes, it easily brought us to the bottom. Only problem pulling the rope was the big freestanding flake above the second bolt (i.e. at the bottom), our rope fell behind it.
Helmets for all parties climbing and watching recommended - loose racks abound. Also, the route is pretty sandy in places.
GEAR BETA - I used medium to large (up to #4) to protect P1. Only used one sketchy small nut, might have used a medium hex. I seem to remember wishing that I had a second C4 #2 (gold). In any case, a SR for P1 seemed completely adequate.
Pitch 2 eats gear!! Depends how much you want to protect it - being low angle though, I'm not sure how far you want to slide! C4 #0.5 and medium-large nuts seemed to work well, alongside opportunities to use the rest of your rack.
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton Oct 8, 2012 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
The 1st pitch seemed fairly easy for a 5.8. Good climb!
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton Oct 11, 2012 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
The first 10' of the second pitch is 5.8. It is only 5.7 after that.
By Alex Vidal From: Boulder, CO Jul 21, 2014 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
This is a fine trad line and not to be missed if you are in the area. The first pitch seemed kind of awkward, with reasonable protection opportunities in semi-questionable rock (be reasonably solid at the grade). The second pitch protects very easily and is not sustained (a good beginner's lead). The 5.8 section on the second pitch has bolts you can clip, so you really don't even need to be a 5.8 trad leader to tackle the second pitch.