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Military Wall
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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: T. Seibert, M. Hackworth, 12/'74
Page Views: 801
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 9, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Follow the obvious crack


Climb up the initial wide crack to reach some gear perhaps 6 meters above the ground. Place something and head up the pleasant and reasonably well protected corner to a ledge, belaying from a tree on it.
Scramble up lower angle rock to the top and belay from a second tree.
To descend, rap on 2 ropes to the ground, or to the tree on a ledge and then to the ground on a second rap.


Continue far right on the Military Wall, passing the beautiful flat face of Pink Feat and stop near the NE most point, nearly in view of the road. A left-facing corner system starts from the ground with a steep wide crack and becomes easier as you go.


A standard rack to 4 with some longer slings. A steep wide section is encountered prior to reaching the first piece of gear, but nobody seems to get hurt on it. I have not climbed this since the advent of 'large cams,but perhaps a very large cam would help?

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By wojtassi
From: Roselle, IL
Jun 1, 2009

You can do it in one pitch with 60 m. rope as long as you extend your placements(a lot of spots that can create a rope drag). You can also repel from bolted anchors with 60 m. rope. The first section can be protected with #6 Camelot. Very fun lead. Nice view from the top.

By John Ely
From: DC
Nov 19, 2009

A six camalot on the first section makes this pg, not pg13 in my opinion, but it is a physical, tiring 5.7. We rapped easily with a 70 meter line.

By Philip Lutz
From: Akron/Oberlin, Ohio
Aug 22, 2011

this route is like 80-90 feet and finishes on a set of bolted anchors right before the topout

some flakes are pretty hollow and a number six C4 is great to bump up the start and then i slung one of the chockstones and carried the number six

run it out and go light on need at least one number 4 C4 and some hand/fist sized pieces