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Military Wall
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G.I. 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: T. Seibert, M. Hackworth, 12/'74
Page Views: 801
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 9, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Follow the obvious crack

Description 

Climb up the initial wide crack to reach some gear perhaps 6 meters above the ground. Place something and head up the pleasant and reasonably well protected corner to a ledge, belaying from a tree on it.
Scramble up lower angle rock to the top and belay from a second tree.
To descend, rap on 2 ropes to the ground, or to the tree on a ledge and then to the ground on a second rap.


Location 

Continue far right on the Military Wall, passing the beautiful flat face of Pink Feat and stop near the NE most point, nearly in view of the road. A left-facing corner system starts from the ground with a steep wide crack and becomes easier as you go.


Protection 

A standard rack to 4 with some longer slings. A steep wide section is encountered prior to reaching the first piece of gear, but nobody seems to get hurt on it. I have not climbed this since the advent of 'large cams,but perhaps a very large cam would help?



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By wojtassi
From: Roselle, IL
Jun 1, 2009

You can do it in one pitch with 60 m. rope as long as you extend your placements(a lot of spots that can create a rope drag). You can also repel from bolted anchors with 60 m. rope. The first section can be protected with #6 Camelot. Very fun lead. Nice view from the top.

By John Ely
From: DC
Nov 19, 2009

A six camalot on the first section makes this pg, not pg13 in my opinion, but it is a physical, tiring 5.7. We rapped easily with a 70 meter line.

By Philip Lutz
From: Akron/Oberlin, Ohio
Aug 22, 2011

this route is like 80-90 feet and finishes on a set of bolted anchors right before the topout

some flakes are pretty hollow and a number six C4 is great to bump up the start and then i slung one of the chockstones and carried the number six

run it out and go light on gear...you need at least one number 4 C4 and some hand/fist sized pieces