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This is a fun climb for the position and the summit, but the protection will make you wonder. You could climb it just with quickdraws, but I found it more soothing on my mind to place some cams, as well.
The climbing is easy up to the notch. Above this, on the Northeast arete, spot the line of fixed protection where the route goes. At the notch, you can place a couple 1/2"-3/4" cams. The first piton is pretty worthless. Above that you can place a small, red C4 Camalot, but you will only have two lobes in the crumbly rock. Just work your feet a little and you can easily reach the next piton, which is much better. Pull through the crux move, and continue on easier climbing past 3 very old bolts to the airy summit.
The anchor consists of 2 large pipes sticking straight up out of the rock, along with one railroad spike piton with a chain link on it. I actually slung one of the pipes, along with the spike, and then used a jammed knot in a crack, and equalized them all and left some rap rings. One might just as easily simply throw the rope over the pipes, but I was worried about the potential for it to pop, if I unweighted. So, hopefully the anchor I left is still there for future parties (although it still might not be too inspiring to some climbers).
After scrambling up the talus slope on the west side of the formation, rope up and start climbing directly below the obvious notch on the north side of the summit.
Small to medium cams, and maybe some wireds. Quickdraws. See notes above on anchor. Rappel.
|By Jon Grams|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 23, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
This would be a great route if it weren't for the crumbly rock on the crux. I pulled off a softball sized piece from one of the crux holds. Not sure if it is 5.9 anymore. Cool view from the top, but something of a chosspile.