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Redgarden - Tower Two
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10,000 Leagues 
After The Gold Rush 
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Bolting for Glory 
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Cave Pitch 
Centaur 
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Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) 
Fools Learn 
Genius Loci 
Ghoul's Turn 
Green Willow Wall 
Inset, The 
Jules Verne 
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation 
King Tut 
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No Lo Contendere 
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Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent 
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Scratch and Sniff 
Seams Beyond 
Seize of Holds 
Serpent, The 
Shasta 
Sickness Unto Death 
Slots of Fun 
Slow Train Coming 
Superlink, The 
T2 
T2 Direct Finish 
Touch 'N' Go 
Weeping Willow 
Wild Kingdom 
Wingless Victory 

Ghoul's Turn 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a X

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
FA: Steve Levin
Page Views: 1,597
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Apr 18, 2002
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  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    This is a long, elegant, but dangerous face route on the long-overlooked plaque of rock left of Jules Verne and Green Willow Wall. It starts about ten feet down the ramp (right) from Fool's Learn (a 5.10+ seam) and just left of a long, left-trending arch (Cameron Tague's Weeping Willow).

    You can recognize this route by a black streak down low, which leads to a horn at mid-height, topped off by a long, green face tilted back at 88 degrees, and an easier crack to finish. This pitch finishes at the anchors atop Fool's Learn and can easily be toproped (bring some gear to back up the funky fixed jive).

    Boulder off the ramp on flaky rock, which quickly improves. Crank left into the offset seam, placing small RP's and getting creative with stoppers (5.11). The seam leads to a horn and a nice rest stance. Sling the horn (a double-length or Rabbit runner is nice here) and run it out up the green face on crisp, but somewhat cripsy edges (5.10 vs). A thank-God jug appears just after you enter the deck fall zone ...

    Easier climbing leads to the anchors.


    Protection 

    You're not going to need much. RPs, stoppers, TCUs (double up in the very smallest sizes - #0 and #00), and maybe a bit of hand-sized gear for the finishing crack and belay.



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