Ghoul's Turn  5.11c X

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90 feet FA:  Steve Levin Submitted By:  Pinklebear on Apr 18, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

This is a long, elegant, but dangerous face route on the long-overlooked plaque of rock left of Jules Verne and Green Willow Wall. It starts about ten feet down the ramp (right) from Fool's Learn (a 5.10+ seam) and just left of a long, left-trending arch (Cameron Tague's Weeping Willow).

You can recognize this route by a black streak down low, which leads to a horn at mid-height, topped off by a long, green face tilted back at 88 degrees, and an easier crack to finish. This pitch finishes at the anchors atop Fool's Learn and can easily be toproped (bring some gear to back up the funky fixed jive).

Boulder off the ramp on flaky rock, which quickly improves. Crank left into the offset seam, placing small RP's and getting creative with stoppers (5.11). The seam leads to a horn and a nice rest stance. Sling the horn (a double-length or Rabbit runner is nice here) and run it out up the green face on crisp, but somewhat cripsy edges (5.10 vs). A thank-God jug appears just after you enter the deck fall zone ...

Easier climbing leads to the anchors.

Protection 

You're not going to need much. RPs, stoppers, TCUs (double up in the very smallest sizes - #0 and #00), and maybe a bit of hand-sized gear for the finishing crack and belay.