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Ghostdancing 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Peter Shackleton, Robin Barley
Page Views: 760
Submitted By: Shelton Hatfield on Jul 22, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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looking up at 2nd going up 1st pitch.

Description 

In my opinion somewhat of a forgotten classic. The first two pitches of climbing tackle many varied cruxes. Your prize for questing up the delightful flakes and slabs of the lower pitches is the mellower but super classic third pitch corner.

P1) Start off of the large pancake flake leaning against the wall. Climb up, clip a bolt, and then pull the route's first crux, a burly and perplexing slab overlap. After clipping more bolts traverse right to a large layback flake. Ascend this flake placing gear until you reach a bolt, and pull some hard face/arete moves. Easier climbing leads to a bolted belay. 5.11b

P2) Easy but interesting slab moves lead to a bolt and a good stance before the route's technical crux, a thin techy slab problem. Pull the crux and then traverse up and left into a corner on easy but runout terrain. The bolt protected corner provides interesting arete/corner moves. Bolted anchor. 5.11c

P3) Ascend the beautiful right-facing layback corner, eventually exiting left up a system of cracks. Bolted belay. 5.10c

Three double rope raps down the route will reach the ground.

Location 

Uphill from seasoned in the sun, starting off of a very distinct pancake flake.

Protection 

Doubles to #2 Camalot, stoppers, quickdraws, two ropes recommended for the rappels.


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By Tim Bonnell
Jun 6, 2016

Climbed Ghostdancing(p1)/Arthroscopy(p2) yesterday. The climbing is good but very dirty and in serious need of a retro-scrub. The 2 pitches we were able to get up were pretty grubby but still climbable if you don't mind excavating holds.

The 2nd pitch of Ghostdancing is probably not lead-able in its current state - I tried to clean it with my nut tool on rappel but it needs some heavier scrubbing artillery. The top half of the 3rd pitch (10c layback) looked completely overgrown from the belay (we didn't venture up).

NOTE: It is possible to rappel from the top of Ghostdancing p2 with a single 70m. Unfortunately the anchors are classic Barley handiwork...
By Shelton Hatfield
Aug 22, 2016

Wait a sec, you gave the route 2 stars? And you didn't even climb it? Kinda hard to know the quality if you didn't climb the route.

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