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Ghostdancing 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Peter Shackleton, Robin Barley
Page Views: 320
Submitted By: Shelton Hatfield on Jul 22, 2013

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Description 

In my opinion somewhat of a forgotten classic. The first two pitches of climbing tackle many varied cruxes. Your prize for questing up the delightful flakes and slabs of the lower pitches is the mellower but super classic third pitch corner.

P1) Start off of the large pancake flake leaning against the wall. Climb up, clip a bolt, and then pull the route's first crux, a burly and perplexing slab overlap. After clipping more bolts traverse right to a large layback flake. Ascend this flake placing gear until you reach a bolt, and pull some hard face/arete moves. Easier climbing leads to a bolted belay. 5.11b

P2) Easy but interesting slab moves lead to a bolt and a good stance before the route's technical crux, a thin techy slab problem. Pull the crux and then traverse up and left into a corner on easy but runout terrain. The bolt protected corner provides interesting arete/corner moves. Bolted anchor. 5.11c

P3) Ascend the beautiful right-facing layback corner, eventually exiting left up a system of cracks. Bolted belay. 5.10c

Three double rope raps down the route will reach the ground.

Location 

Uphill from seasoned in the sun, starting off of a very distinct pancake flake.

Protection 

Doubles to #2 Camalot, stoppers, quickdraws, two ropes recommended for the rappels.


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