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The 3 crack climbs, Mystery Ship, Ship of Fools, & Mystery Tour begin from a common system and branch to individual lines after the first 30 feet. Begin about 10 feet left of Mystery Ship and follow vague, blocky terrain to where the lines diverge (5.6, gear to 1 inch, 30 feet). All 3 lines top out at the belay tree for Dragon Slayer. Lower off or rappel 90 feet from slings with rings. Extensive cleaning and trail work have been done to provide access to these excellent crack climbs.
These routes are located on the NW side of the Third Tier of Avalon just left of Mystery Ship. This is actually the far right side of the NE Face, perhaps 100 feet right of Ancient Light.
Before committing to the middle crack (Ship of Fools), climb a right-facing corner to a small ledge, pull left and jam a hand crack to the right side of a roof. Pull right and jam a final crack to good ledges and the belay tree.
Begin from the ledge, 10 feet left of Mystery Ship .
Nuts and cams from 0.5 inch to 3.0 inches. Lower off or rappel 90 feet from slings with rings around a tree.
BETA PHOTO: Crack Land as viewed from the trail that runs alon...
|By Bruce Pech|
Aug 11, 2006
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b
Ghost Ship felt a little testy for .10a although I may have erred by face climbing a foot left of the start of the crack -- which forced me to do an insecure blind placement before stepping back right into the crack itself. Bring 5-8 pieces from a yellow Alien to a #3 Friend (with an emphasis on 1" - 2 1/2"), more if you plan to protect the first 30' of 5.4 - 5.6 rock.