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the crux in my opinion is getting that next clip
Starts out on crimpy shotgun style climbing in the high 5.10 - low 5.11 range. then hits a roof with a strong dyno move and some balance technique to get that 4th clip. Crux is pulling the roof or clipping the 4th. The route(4th bolt placement) is designed to take you left on the face and away from the arete, climbing it this way puts it in the 11+/12- range. There is an alternative staying on the arete with good holds around the right side of the arete. Much easier(11 b/c) but still fun. great route anyway you try it.
Just to the right of Too many puppies and Kalamazo0
4 bolts to two bolts up top for anchors. Bring some slings for the anchor over the edge
nice undercling pocket underneath the bolder on to...
swinging free. This is a bomber hold btw.
By Drew Allred
Nov 13, 2012
I really enjoyed this route! Acrobatic move from the undercling to the boulder on top is pretty ballsy. Although once you leap for it, you'll find the holds are bomber. To that point it's super crimpy/balancy. Highly recommend this route if you're in Shotgun.