Ghost Dome (AKA Infinity Dome) Rock Climbing
Ghost Dome in foreground. It's hard to tell that ...
Ghost Dome hosts a couple of quality multi-pitch routes with clean rock and lots of sun. The routes on Ghost Dome can be great by themselves or as a link up after climbing The Whale Dome. The area is located behind the Whale Dome, across a drainage to the North East.
We first climbed the dome, ground up, via a very nice three pitch natural line which we dubbed Scoopin Booty. There was no evidence of anyone climbing this line, yet it just seemed too good to have been unclimbed. There is evidence of route development far right on the cliff, marked by a random SMC button head a few feet off the deck with a bail biner hanging from it. Upon climbing this dome our first time we found a single SMC button head bolt on the summit. We replaced this single button head with a couple of nice Metolius rap bolt hangers.
Upon doing some investigation it does appear that both of these routes were first ascents. There is confirmation that a few other routes have been established both to the left of Time'll Tell and to the right of Scoopin' Booty. If you like steep crack climbing, get on Scoopin' Booty.
From the end of Forest Road 687, start up the standard approach toward Whale Dome, (e.g., up the northern wash, not Trail #279). Follow the wash for about 40 minutes until you are almost under The Whale Dome. Dont cut left up the steep, vague drainage toward the base of Moby Dick. Rather, continue up the main drainage for another five or so minutes passing the East Face of The Whale Dome. There will be another vague drainage cutting left which wraps around the back side of The Whale Dome. A few downed old growth cypress trees guard this drainage. Once past the downed trees continue up a steep, loose and dirt filled drainage for another few minutes. Ghost Dome is the first significant wall on the right just before the drainage ends. Cut right, out of the drainage, and follow cairns traversing along the base of the cliff. Navigate through trees, past a short lie-back move in an alcove, and under some tree branches to gain the base of the main cliff. The approach trail to the base of the wall still needs some work. Timell Tell has a bunch scree at the base and the first three bolts, followed by a wide crack, can be seen from the ground. Scoopin Booty is located just beyond Timell Tell to climbers right.
- Alternatively, you can approach Ghost Dome relatively easily after climbing The Whale Dome. Once on the notch/saddle below The Whale Dome rappel, scramble down 4th class terrain to the north (this is the opposite direction of the standard descent back to base of Moby Dick) and across a drainage to the base of the Ghost Dome. It should take no more than 15 minutes total to get there.
Rap (~80ft) off the backside of the formation via two Metolius rap bolts. These rap bolts are just below the summit and can be seen easily while standing on the summit. Then take an adventuresome walk/ scramble/ bushwhack/ downclimb through the gulley to the west.
Climbing Season For the West Stronghold area.
Weather station 7.6 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Ghost Dome (AKA Infinity Dome)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Ghost Dome (AKA Infinity Dome)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Ghost Dome (AKA Infinity Dome):
Featured Route For Ghost Dome (AKA Infinity Dome)
Time'll Tell 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a AZ
: Cochise Stronghold
: ... : Ghost Dome (AKA Infinity Do...
P1: 5.9, 80ft. Use a half inch crack to protect the first moves as you climb up and angle right on good holds to gain the first bolt. Climb past three bolts to gain a crack which widens from hands to off-width to stemming. One #4 Camalot can be walked to protect this section. There is also a micro cam placement out left on the arête to protect the wideness above. Belay atop pillar at a caballo belay, either slinging the entire top of the pillar or using medium to large cams in a c...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
BETA PHOTO: Topo for Time'll Tell and Scoopin' Booty, Ghost Do...
BETA PHOTO: Darryl on Time'll Tell Scoopin Booty follows crack...
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 5, 2012
Both of these routes were really fun. Good job you guys.
We rapped (~170')from the top of pitch 2 of "Scoopin'," pulled the ropes and climbed "Time'll." Pitches 3 and 4 are easily combined.
Excellent summit view!
By Zeb Rafaker
Feb 13, 2012
The Descent is more like a scramble / Downclimb down the west gulley.
After the rock bridge hang a right, then switchback left through the tree and then look left for a squeeze chimney. Climb through and down. The rest is fairly straightfoward.