|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Paul Landram, 1975|
|Submitted By:||saxfiend on Oct 14, 2007|
|Comments on Ghost Dancers||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Decatur, GA
Aug 9, 2009
|This is really a nice line, challenging without being outrageously scary. The climbing down low isn't that tough, making up for the thin protection, and excellent gear at the crux hand crack up top means a clean, well-protected fall if you miss the moves. Too bad it's not longer.|
Jun 3, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climbed this today, one of my favorite climbs in Sunset park.
The craggers atlas calls the direct start a 10, and it's definitely pretty height dependent. The flakes and such to the right are, as I understand, the standard start.
This climb is absolutely phenomenal, although a hair short to be a classic. Great fun climbing with thought provoking moves and pro. I wouldn't say any part of the climb lacked adequate pro, but it definitely makes you work for it. I found a small metolius and a tricam helpful.
The finish is heaps of fun. And once you think it's over, even the topout gives a few thought provoking twists.
Sep 23, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
|Only wish this climb was longer, it has three distinct sectionsand they are all fun.|
From: Knoxville, TN
Jul 19, 2016
|In Chattrad the photo seems to show the standard start as going straight up. Doing so would set your first piece of gear well off the deck - probably 20' or so. As someone mentioned above, just traverse in from the right for a less heady start. Fun route with a cruxy move down low and a tough finish|