Ghost Dance 

I also thought this really good pitch. It is a cool mix of technical and physical with a side of holy shit! I had the typical good luck of getting to lead the last 2/3 of the route in a light rain(not recommened). The pro at the bottom is better tahn you expect. Bon Voyage! TF

Don't walk by and gawk at this one, or Hesitation Blues too many times before climbing them. Among the best they are.

I just did this route yesterday (8-29) and must say that I thoroughly enjoyed it. I personally found it to be fairly difficult for its grade. I can name quite a few solid .11s at Vedauwoo and other places that are significantly easier. If you are good at offwidths, then don't worry about bringing big gear for the final offwidth section. You can get good gear right before it and it is a very secure section. Go get on it!

I need to flip-flop on my last comment. It is right on at Vedauwoo for .11b ish. Some recent spank sessions on some other ".11b" routes at the Voo have shown me the error of my ways. If you haven't done this route, you don't know what you've been missing.

You might consider taping up for this one. There was blood.

A #4 Friend works well in the one obvious spot in the beginning. #4 Camalot will work deep at the beginning of the offwidth at the top. One of my favorite routes at Vedauwoo.

When cleaning I found that all of my gear that I placed had walked to the back of the crack and sure enough, for almost the length of the climb, the crack flares to the inside......SO...Place gear carefully! I almost decked as a result of a "well placed" cam ripping as I fell from about the 50 foot mark. DO this climb though! It is amazing! The fixed stopper at the beginning can be backed up with a tiny maroon 0.2 Camalot but it in there SOLID and the wire looks ok.. Have fun!

This is one of those pitches that, after being spanked on it the first time, you say to yourself..."holy shit, 11b, really?" I'll feel hard as nails when I get that one, next time. Very strenuous pitch, by way of comparison Hesitation Blues is a warmup climb next to this.

Yeah, this one makes Hesitation feel like 5.9. There is definitely a move on this one, and it comes while you are staring at gear that is just kind of ok.

Slim, my friend Jeff who is about 180 lbs. claims there is a bomber sideways nut placement that protects the crux quite well. Probably still wouldn't want to fall once you hit the good jams though. Also, that good old broad category of Vedauwoo "5.11". Gotta love it.

Interesting, I will make a mental note. I seem to remember a tweaky black Alien, and you aren't too far above the nice foot ledge/flake. Helluva route, that Gary Isaacs picked some cherries!

This route now has a bolt anchor. Be careful lowering though, as it is right around 30m long.

As of today, there was not a fixed nut off of the flake at the start, but a #4 nut will pass in its place.