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{10} Mordor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angle of the Dangle T,S 
Crumbling, The S 
Dark Lord S 
Getting Your Kicks S 
Grace S 
Hellboy S 
Humbling, The S 
Meth Rage T 
Mrs. Norris S 
Route 66 S 
Slack Face S 
Step Child S 
Tofutti Cutie S 

Getting Your Kicks 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tymun Abbott/ Shane
Page Views: 602
Submitted By: Colin Parker on Sep 19, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

This route climbs past the bolt near a broken crack and then proceeds to follow a bolt line up and slightly right. There are a few awkward blocks and ledges down low but the climbing becomes more sustained and steep higher up. Towards the top you trend right to a set of anchors. It is possible to traverse right at the top to descend off of the Route 66 anchors (and also setup a top-rope on that route).

Location 

This is the first bolted line in the Mordor sector and is just right of the blocky crack/corner of Dad's Nuts.

Protection 

10 or so quickdraws


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By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Sep 19, 2013

I led this route last week and it felt comfortably within the 5.10 range. It is far easier than route 66 next door. If consensus pushes it up into the 10d/11a range I will adjust the route grade.
By Topher Dabrowski
Mar 20, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is definitely easier than Route 66 but given the other routes in the crag felt like 11a. Mrs. Norris on the other hand felt like a definite step up from Route 66
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
May 25, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Felt like 11a to me. A couple decently cruxy spots with a pump build fits it nicely into the 11- range I think. Cool route.
By dmPete
May 26, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

In 2015 there was a stumpy tree that many folks used to make the moves onto the first ledge, past the first bolt. Now that it's gone, maybe the opening moves bring the grade up a tick.

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