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Getting a permit (Boston Basin)
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By KatieFarris
Aug 21, 2014
coming back from Little Finger (5.5) Lake George, ...
I'm visiting Washington next week and am looking to narrow down climbs and routes for the weekend of Sept. 6th. I would really love to get on the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak, but have heard that getting o/n permits for Boston Basin can be hard. Is this true? and if so, are there any hints on how to maximize my chances of getting one?

Thanks,
Katie

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By Matt Lemke
From Red Lodge, MT
Aug 21, 2014
hmm...yeah might be full but likely not. If the weather is perfect, that route can be day-climbed if you keep moving. Depending on your comfort on low 5th class terrain it can be done quickly. The couloir option getting to the notch in the west ridge will be out so you'll have to climb one of the gullies left of the couloir. Good luck...that's an excellent route in am amazing setting

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By KatieFarris
Aug 21, 2014
coming back from Little Finger (5.5) Lake George, ...
How far in advance can you get the permit? The website looks as though it's day-before/day-of only.

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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Aug 21, 2014
Have you considered calling the ranger's office that issues the permits to ask them these questions? It might be helpful.

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By Matt Lemke
From Red Lodge, MT
Aug 21, 2014
Get the Permits at the Marblemount Ranger station the evening before or morning of. It's very easy

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By JenniferL
Aug 22, 2014
At Clark Canyon near Mammoth Lakes
Yeah, since it's the weekend right before the Cascade River Road will be closed, I am guessing permits will be hard to come by. The only advice I can give is to get to the ranger station .5 to 1 hour before the opening time on the day before entry at the ranger station and stand in line (so if you want to enter Boston Basin on Saturday, be at the ranger station early on Friday morning). Some people will camp the night before at the ranger station to stand in line early so don't be surprised if you already see quite a queue there.

Also, have a good plan B in place. The first year I tried to get a permit was unsuccessful. The rangers suggested Triumph's NE Ridge, which was a decent alternative, although with a more difficult approach.

Good luck, and have fun!

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By KatieFarris
Aug 24, 2014
coming back from Little Finger (5.5) Lake George, ...
Thanks for the info J Louie!

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By Kyro
Aug 24, 2014
Been out climbing in that general area plenty of times. Never got a permit. Or just do it in a single push. U should be fine

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By kurthicks
Aug 30, 2014
You can get a permit the day before your trip begins by going to the Marblemount Wilderness Information Center.

The couloir is melted out for the season.

You'll have to carry a bear canister if camping in Boston Basin.

Finally, the scheduled closure of the Cascade River Road past the Eldorado trailhead for Sept 8 onward was cancelled. The road is slated to be open for the remainder of the season.

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