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Tectonic Wall
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Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Hancock, Carandang, Truesdale, T. and Truesdale, I., 2004
Page Views: 5,519
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Nov 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (184)
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Aaron K. gettin' lucky.

Description 

This climb is a classic "must-do" for the area...technical/pumpy climbing featuring pockets, jugs, and sidepulls with a steep finish. Enjoy!

Location 

Farthest route to the left on the Tectonic Wall.

Protection 

6 bolts/anchors.


Photos of Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky Slideshow Add Photo
Seth leading the way on Getting Lucky in Kentucky.
Seth leading the way on Getting Lucky in Kentucky.

Comments on Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky Add Comment
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 4, 2007

About 1 and a half years ago I was climbing this thing breaking lots of footholds off due to the newness of the climb.
By Aaron Martinuzzi
May 14, 2009

I climbed this route in the fall of 2007 and it was in solid shape.

However, the third bolt is a bit far past the second, with some ground-fall potential if the leader falls after taking up rope to clip. Best to belay attentively - I took in more than two big arm lengths of rope as my climber fell from this point and we met eye-to-eye about 2 feet off the deck.
By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
Oct 19, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Nearly every route has groundfall potential if you blow the 2nd or 3rd clip, especially if you clip from too low. Although counter-intuitive, it's generally better to clip high because it minimizes the amount of slack out. This one is very closely bolted in my opinion - much more so than most routes in the Red.

All that said... this is a great route with fun moves on clean rock!
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Outstanding route, probably my favorite lead this trip. The section between the second and third bolts felt a little desperate, but I managed to pull it off without a fall. Must-do climb!
By Troy Russell
From: Fenton, MI
Jan 25, 2012

Looks like fun!

I'll have to give it a try someday.
By Chadd Sechler
From: Turbotville, PA
Aug 30, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great, fun route... A Classic!