|The Throne of God
I'm not sure if this route knocks Rock Till You Drop off it's throne as the best route at Juliette but I do think it's a bit harder. It is more overhung than RTYD and the crux is tougher. It is definitely more dangerous though. It is pretty well overhung and a fall from the crux puts your back and neck right over a long, sharp rock at the bottom. It needs to be protected with two to three pads at least. This route works the far left edge of the rock. It skirts right over the top of the blank roof underneath and then a massive jug leads you up and over the point. the crux is about the third move and it's really about getting your feet in the right position to go for the jug.
It starts on the far left of the main overhang. If you go past the obvious separation then you've gone to far. You start with the small slanted ledge and a sloper around the left side into a heal hook. Then up, right and over the point.
Top rope or two to three crash pads. At least two spotters would be a good idea. The fall is really bad on to a sharp spine of a rock.
BETA PHOTO: Get Your Rocks off starts on the far left edge.
Another shot of the route and the left side of the...
Jul 2, 2009
Don't know if you're aware, but V6 does not translate to 5.10a, V6 translates to 5.12d...
If it is 5.10a, then it's a V0...
Jul 8, 2009
Yeah, I've come to understand this. I'll stand by the V6. I can't see it being called a V0. Though I'm no expert at all. Initially I wasn't sure how to rate it on top rope because it's only 18ft. The moves/holds themselves are at least 5.13 in my book but sense it's so short I called it 5.10. In the end it's probably not worth giving it a 5. rating of any kind and just stick with the bouldering grade. It would be nice if someone else climbed this and other routes at Juliette and gave some feedback. Very few people climb here though (I only know of one other group).
Thanks for the info.
|By Hank Rankin|
Dec 7, 2010
this problem is v4, two hardish moves near the start, jugs all the way tp the top after
Dec 10, 2010
Hey Hank. Good to see you climbed out there again. I agree it's probably short of V6. The first few moves are the crux. Falling from the jugs would really suck though. I hadn't really bouldered much when we first started putting up these few routes. I'd like to see the consensus bring them all to where they should be but enough people will probably never climb there. I may just change it. I haven't climbed there in well over a year (live in Virginia now). I'd like to come back and see what I think about it now.
|By Garrett Canter|
Sep 24, 2013
Has anyone tried going straight up the middle? Looks like it could be real hard but not sure how wide it is.
Oct 3, 2013
It's a large chunk of rock and there is plenty of room between this one and Rock Till You Drop but there are virtually no options for holds in the "middle". There are a few micro ledges and a small seam for fingertips up higher but that's about it. Once you get to the top jugs appear all over the place.
I can't see another route in there but maybe a "V14" type could see some possibilities.