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The Sheepshead
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absinthe of Mallet T 
Barnyard Wall 1 S 
Barnyard Wall 2 T,S 
Climb Too Tough To Die, The T,S 
Ewephoria T,S 
Get The Flock Out Of Here T 
Great second pitch. S 
Greedy Little Varmint T 
Ides of Middlemarch T 
Mad Cow Disease T,S 
Peacemaker, The S 
Stampede S 
Tombstone Stripper, The T,S 
Unknown (begins 50' left of The Climb Too Tough to Die) T,S 
Unknown (corner 15' left of Peacemaker) T,S 
Unknown (right of stampede) T 
Unknown (Right of The Peacemaker) S 

Get The Flock Out Of Here 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 650', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: SA
Page Views: 2,888
Submitted By: Geir on Apr 28, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Stu Ritchie on pitch 1 roof

Description 

This is a fun, challenging route with a variety of climbing and quality rock. You will encounter laybacks, slab climbing, a few thin face moves, and some strenuous crack moves.

To locate the route, walk about 200' uphill from the start of Ewephoria. Here you will find a clearly defined staging area next to a 30' right facing corner. The first pitch starts on the crack to the right of the corner. Three bolts are visible along the crack.

Pitch 1 (5.10, 100'): Climb the crack, passing three bolts. At the end of the crack, make a strenuous reach (5.10) to a handhold on the right and move under a roof. Move up and left to a spot where you can pull the roof (5.9). Move left a few feet to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.7, 125'): Follow the bolts up the slab to an anchor under a roof.

Pitch 3 (5.10+, 170'): Pull the roof (5.10a/b) following bolts past two ledges. The crux lies just above the first ledge. Be cautious - a combination of rope stretch and lack of visibility for your belayer could easily lead to a tweaked ankle in this spot.

Pitch 4 (5.10, 140'): This is the best pitch of the climb. Head up and left following two bolts to a short gully which narrows to a handcrack. The handcrack moves are strenuous. At the top of the handcrack traverse right underneath a roof to a bolted anchor at a small stance.

Pitch 5 (5.10+, 110'): Layback a short, difficult crack section (5.10+). The crack narrows to 1" after about 25'. At this point move left to face climbing (5.10) along a series of bolts leading to the summit.

A topo for this climb can be found here:
toofasttopos.com/free/

Protection 

Standard rack to #4 camalot, doubles #.75 to #3.


Photos of Get The Flock Out Of Here Slideshow Add Photo
overhanging layback at the beginning of P5
overhanging layback at the beginning of P5
Wyatt Payne leads the 4th pitch
Wyatt Payne leads the 4th pitch
First pitch from the ground
First pitch from the ground
j.prouty on the first pitch
j.prouty on the first pitch
fourth pitch awesomeness
fourth pitch awesomeness
Steep lieback with tricky exit.  Gets better the higher you go.
Steep lieback with tricky exit. Gets better the h...
fun traverse!
fun traverse!
From 1/4 way up first pitch
From 1/4 way up first pitch

Comments on Get The Flock Out Of Here Add Comment
Show which comments
By dcohn
Mar 22, 2009

This is a challenging and fun way up Sheepshead. The route seemed more like 600 feet than 700. Cams up to Camalot #4 and a lot of draws were sufficient for pro. I liked having doubles of 1 and .75. The cracks are mostly parallel sided so I did not place a lot of nuts. Depending on your strengths, the crux of the climb might be on different pitches. For us, the last 2 pitches were just as hard as the third one. However it is hard to compare crack and thin face. We slung a boulder at the second huge ledge above pitch 3. It is also possible to climb ~30 feet above it and use 2 bolts for a hanging belay.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 29, 2009

We did just the 1st pitch after climbing Muttonhead. I thought it was one of the best pitches I've climbed so far in Cochise, and is definitely worth doing on its own if you're looking for a bit more climbing at the end of the day. A 70 got us down comfortably and a 60 would probably work with care.
By Angel Mangual
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Oct 7, 2012

Great Route! The fourth pitch is great specially the traverse under the roof. We took doubles from .3-3 BD and a 4 BD. A must do!
By Jimbo
Oct 16, 2012

The 1st and especially the 5th pitch were two of the best pitches I've done in the Stronghold.
The middle section of the third pitch was 2 letter grades harder than anything else on the climb. I was stoked to have not fallen off it, cause it was really close.

The traverse under the roof on pitch 4 is solid 5.10. So don't believe Geir's topo. He's climbing too well to rate stuff any more.

One #4 cam is sufficient you'll only use it on the fourth pitch.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 17, 2012

Hahaha Jim I am becoming a sandbagger! Crap!

No problem, I will fix the topo.
By Clay Mansfield
Dec 11, 2012

Did this a few weeks back, pretty fun. I thought the first pitch was one of the best pitches I've done on the Sheepshead. 4 and 5 and really good too.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
May 8, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This route is called "Get The Flock Out Of Here" and the FA is indeed Scott Ayers.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 8, 2013

updated
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Oct 22, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

It's great to be able to finally call this thing by its real name, and much easier to communicate with other people about it.

This route is a classic, go get on it!

P.S. IIRC, on the low crux of the fifth pitch, where the gear is bomber but there's a possibility you'll collide with your belayer if you fall, a grigri might be a wise choice.