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Balanced Rock
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Get the Balance Right 
Heirloom 

Get the Balance Right 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Reese Martin, Craig Pearson (1997)
Page Views: 312
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Dec 3, 2009
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Description 

This route climbs the center of the steep east face of Balanced Rock, passing several large huecos.


Location 

east face, Balanced Rock


Protection 

6 bolts and 2 shut anchor



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By Alexander
Feb 15, 2010

It's a bit of a hike to get to it

By cesar libanati
Sep 10, 2011

the 5.9 on the right side is missing the first 2-3 bolts. and the ones after are very rusted.

By Ben H
Jan 1, 2012

The whole block is a balanced pile of choss that is exfoliating on all faces. The 11C is Not a 3 star route, and getting it done without breaking a crumbling jug onto your belayers's dome, is probably the only measure of success in getting the route done. The 5.9 has terrible bolts all over it, many of which wouldn't hold a substantial fall, even if the rock did.