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 ADVANCED
Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brazier Food 
Chili Dog 
Double Delight 
Faith Healer 
Five Tree 
Foot Massage, The 
Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) 
Gomez 
Leap Erickson 
Leap of Faith 
Leap Year Flake 
Look Before You Leap 
Lurch 
Mojus (aka Slushie), The 
Norm 
Pat Adams Dihedral 
Snake Oil 
Tofutti 
Toxic Waltz 

Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tom Beck & Tim Ramsey, 1982
Page Views: 1,024
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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view from the bottom

Description 

Climb easy terrain to a solitary bolt about 20' up, then continue up a low-angled slab past a grapefruit-sized knob at the base of a vertical headwall with a featured crack. Intriguing moves, as well as textbook stopper slots, will be found throughout this section; higher the route follows a crack in a left-facing corner which affords some nice stemmming and thin jamming. The crack ends about 20' below the anchors, and while possible to climb directly, an easier (and safer) alternative is to cut right about 8' to reach another crack system leading to the anchor. Bolted anchor/rap.

This is an enjoyable route reminiscent of the featured cracks of the upper Dairy Queen Wall, as well as the Shorter Wall in Rock Garden Valley. Three stars out of five.


Location 

You'll find this route just up and right from a prominent smooth slab with The Mojus (aka Slushie).


Protection 

Bolt (1/2"), pro to 2" (especially small to medium wires), bolted anchor/rap (3/8")



Photos of Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) Slideshow Add Photo
Twenty feet up and almost to the first bit of protection on Get Right Or Get Left (5.9).
Twenty feet up and almost to the first bit of prot...
Andy all grins and enjoying the route. The steep corner of <a href='/v/pat-adams-dihedral/105722740'>Pat Adams Dihedral</a> (5.11b) can be seen in the upper left.
Andy all grins and enjoying the route. The steep c...
"Ger Right Or Get Left" (aka Addams Family). <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Ger Right Or Get Left" (aka Addams Family).
Photo...
coming up to the crux
coming up to the crux
Comments on Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) Add Comment
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By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Mar 7, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

There is a good photo of this route in Vogel's guide. We got to it by traversing along the bottom of the wall from the ice cream theme routes farther north (or right). Once you pass through a huge yucca another few feet will bring you to the bottom of the climb. Good sustained 5.9 climbing almost to the belay where it eases off the last 20'. There are also a few nice rests where good gear can be placed. A very nice pitch after warming up on the routes further right and up the wall.

P.S. ...on pro-I used a green alien, and a yellow and blue TCU.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 14, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Better route than it looks from the ground. Fun - mostly low angle climbing with entertaining (but solid) small nut placements. I placed wires, aliens, and up to a #1 Camalot. We made it back to the ground with a 70m rope, and 60m looks like it'll make it too.

By Jorge
Apr 18, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Yes, you can rap with a 60 meter.

By Indigo Dragon
From: Fairfield, CT
Sep 24, 2013

this climb eats nuts!