|Upper Capitalist Crag
|Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>|
This is a nice warm-up for the cliff. It is the furthest right of the 5 climbs on the cliff and faces East.
It's best to park at the West end of tunnel 2 and hike to tunnel 3. Then head south about 200 yards to the cliff. Ascend a brief scree gully. Start next to the spray painted name on the rock. A #2 Camalot or #3 Friend is nice for the belay.
Clip 7-8 reasonably-spaced bolts using big holds on solid rock. The crux is pulling past the bulge between the 3rd and 4th bolts. Either lieback or use a big stem. Note, the finish has slick rock. The anchors do sit a bit back from the top and are widely-spaced likely due to the rock quality. This shares the anchor with Hours for Dollars. Apparently, this has cleaned up over the years. Watch for sharp burrs from plant material when you pull your rope.
7-8 QDs plus runners for the anchors.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Dec 9, 2002
Take a couple TCUs if you want to protect the ledge fall potential getting to the second bolt. Also handy between the second and fourth bolt. That is the nice thing about a bolted crack.
|By Halsted Morris|
Aug 5, 2003
Dave McCanless and I did the first ascent of what is now named "Hours for dollars" on August 16, 1983. We called the route "PN" (long story about that name, involves an old girlfriend), and it was 5.6 A3 at the time (remember this was the early 80's). I'm surprised that no one didn't notice the piton scars we left. It was a very hot day, which was part of the reason we resorted to 3 aid points. I also pushed off a very large block (3' X 3' X3') block while on lead. There was a short first ascent note in the CLIMBING MAGAZINE Basecamp section, of the December 83' issue about this route.
|By Richard M. Wright|
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 16, 2003
Unfortunately, documentation of these half rope climbs is sparse, at best, prior to the mid 80's when high quality guides emerged as the norm. Erickson's guide from 1980 was a good early effort to get things cobbled together for the Boulder area, however, nothing like that existed for Clear Creek. We have always tried to be on the lookout for old pins or other evidence of prior passage, but these are frequently absent from the more obscure crags. Prior to the mid 80's, peolple just climbed and there was no effort made to get every new route logged in and properly attributed. The process of collecting, attributing, and presenting all of the climbing facts falls largely on the shoulders of the guide writer who simply cannot get a host of unjpublished data assembled. Errors exist in even the best guides and this seems to be the nature of the beast. CB.com, however, can help in this regard since it is open to anyone with access to the internet.
|By Dale D|
From: Parker, CO
Jul 29, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This route is very clean now and very fun. Two double length slings make for a nice anchor if setting up a toprope for frineds. I think a yellow Camalot would be better between the first and second bolts -eh take both and see what works best for you. Now about that anchor....
From: Almont, CO
Dec 31, 2011
I had no concerns climbing to the 2nd bolt without pro. It is easy climbing that a solid 5.10 leader should have no problem with.
|By nate post|
May 25, 2013
This route was a blast. Fun lay-backs through the roof section. I think it has probably cleaned up a lot since some of the earlier comments were made. It is solid. Pro is not needed, but it is great practice for placing some if you're new to trad like I am. The anchors were a little wide without chains or rings, so just keep that in mind if you're setting up a top rope.
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
May 4, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I really liked this climb. I put a #1 C4 between bolts 1 and 2, and #0.3 X4 between bolts 2 and 3. It could be easily done without these, but they made me feel better. The layback at the roof was fun.
I counted 8 bolts and some very widely spaced cold shuts for anchors.