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 ADVANCED
Great Chimney Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bastard Chimney, The 
Coup d'Etat 
Cracker Jack 
Dirty Day 
Get Jacked 
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The 
Handle With Care 
Hot Beef Injection 
Match the Snatch 
Milking the Bull 
Overlooked 
Pale Rider 
Perverted Inspiration 
Practice Chimney  
Son Of Great Chimney 
Son of Great Chimney Direct 
Whipping Boy 
Wild West Homo 

Get Jacked 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 284
Submitted By: Andy Hansen on Sep 26, 2010
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Michael in the upper section

Description 

This is an unnamed route in Sven's book. Get Jacked starts to the left of The Good, The Bad & The Jacked but not on the detached block. Climb a jam crack for 20 feet into a cramped little alcove. From here use the sharp layback flake to a nice stance. Have fun with the decent amount of run out. On top of this platform, you're almost to the top, wonder if you have the right gear to protect the last move (Red BD C3), place it, and do a strange mantle to top out. Variations are certainly possible. Alternatively one could eliminate all features and focus solely using the offwidth just to the right (Hot Beef Injection). Possibly harder than 5.6 but better protected.


Protection 

Good down low, none through the middle and barely any up top.



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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jun 20, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Andy, I can't decide if you mean route 59? If so, then I thought it was very well protected, it just needs big gear (#3-5 BD camalots).

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 20, 2013

Doug, I looked at the picture you posted of Michael climbing and for whatever reason when I climbed the route I went left instead of right into the wide crack. None the less, either way you do it, it probably adds up to about 5.6, right?

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jun 20, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

We stemmed across. No gear the way *you* went! but if you're not hauling big gear, it wouldn't really matter ...

I enjoyed it!