Type: Trad, 720 ft (218 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: N.B., A.M., July 2010
Page Views: 1,637 total · 10/month
Shared By: Andrew McDowell on Jul 27, 2010
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

This route climbs the entire groove which Groovin' in the Name of the Laurel follows for 130 feet. While Groovin' is very climbable when the groove is wet, this one would be very challenging and dangerous to climb when wet. Also I have seen the groove entirely frozen in the coldest winter days but it usually falls down before 10am so it might make an insanely bold/dangerous ice climb. The groove basically has a seasonable stream running down it that is usually only dry in high summer, even when there are frequent afternoon T-storms. The climbing is very high quality fairly deep groove climbing. The easier climbing on this route is probably quite a bit more runout than comparable climbing on other Laurel Knob routes of similar grades.

Warning: Climbing at Laurel Knob is extremely dangerous due to long runouts, poor protection, difficult route finding, rappel descents, and other factors. The information in this posting is provided for informational and historical purposes only to aid in understanding roughly where the route has been climbed before. Information provided is approximate, subjective, and based upon sometimes vague memories of recreational climber(s) that may not have been recorded until long after climbing the route. As such, the information is unverified and may be inaccurate, incomplete, and/or misleading. Any person(s) attempting to climb this route or any others does so at their own risk using their own routefinding skills and judgement and shall not rely on any information in this posting. Bolts and fixed anchors left in place on the route were placed so as to protect the first ascent party (often placed from strenuous stances while drilling on lead in traditional style), but it is neither claimed nor implied that such anchors as well as removable protection placement locations are safe or suitable to protect further ascents. It is the responsibility of persons climbing the route to thoroughly inspect bolts/fixed anchors before deciding to use them.

All pitch lengths are guesses.

P1: Climb the low angle slab on the left side of the manatee apron to a gear anchor with a #4 camalot. (5.4)

P2: (5.10d) Climb steep wall directly up to flakes that take you to a bolt or climb easier, better protected terrain up seams to the right. From the bolt, continue past 3 more bolts and sparse gear to a long runout on 5.7 terrain with an opportunity to place a cliffhanger hook for "protection" (180 ft)

P3: (5.9) Continue up groove past 3 bolts and gear to 2 bolt anchor (180 ft.)

P4: (5.9) Continue up the groove to a steep bulge with small gear in the slabby corner below Continue up the groove past a huge, precariously balanced death flake to the left. Traverse left to the tree island (160 ft)

Location Suggest change

Start on left side of manatee apron

Protection Suggest change

Doubles of small cams, singles to #4 camalot, tricams, nuts, taped down cliffhanger hook.

Photos

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