||Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 190'
|Original: ||WI5-6 R [details]|
|FA: ||Mike Lowe, Brian Childress, 10/97|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Late fall, winter, early spring|
|Page Views: ||447|
|Submitted By: ||Loweball on Aug 3, 2011|
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On the first ascent of Gestas. The upper curtain ...
Gestas, the Bad Thief, takes a line directly up the center of a wide, thin sheet of ice glued to the sweeping rock face on the right of the main flow. The first 100 feet essentially goes from just off vertical to just past vertical in a smooth, tasty arc. Crux is between eighty and a hundred feet, involving delicate moves on slightly overhanging thin ice. On the first ascent, the ice varied between one and three inches thick, trending thinner toward the top. Stubbies bottomed out, and Spectres just shattered off serving-dish-sized plates. Hence, the Bad Thief. After that the ground eases considerably.
Later in the season the slab probably thickens up some, and if so it likely gets to easy WI5.
See the description for Dismas
Stubbies, Screamers, a regular screw for the upper portion, light thoughts.