|181 page views|
An arete climb that starts on small crimps, and transitions into powerful moves on pinches and slopers with technical footwork on poor holds. Solid or hard for the grade, I thought.
See Area description. 3.7 or 3.8 miles from start of Mountain Home Rd.
Start standing with hands on right shoulder high crimp, and left on pointed crimp, with right foot on wall, and left heel around corner. Finishes on fair slopers along the corner and lip above.
The landing is poor, particularly when you are pawing through the final slopers on the finish rail, but with 2-3 pads, and a spotter to guard the rock behind, this problem can be climbed somewhat safely.
The downclimb is not trivial. Delicately move from the Geronimo topout over the sloping top of the boulder on a bed of pine needles. Either climb down the tree small sharp branches that don't look very strong, or ease your way down the arc fin on the opposite end of the boulder (feels like insecure v1-2 to downclimb). There is also a bad landing at the bad of this, so do it in control as much as possible. Getting a pad or two under the descending climber makes this a little less dangerous.